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DIY plywood stool drawings. DIY plywood chair. Step-by-step instructions: how to make a stool from wood

If you decide to master the process of making home furniture, you should start with the simplest designs. First, try making a stool with your own hands. You can completely cope with this task even if you do not have any special skills in working with wood.

Drawing up a drawing

To avoid mistakes, it is worth making at least a schematic drawing of the future design. Our stool will consist of the following parts:

Seats: its side can be equal to 350-430 mm;

Main details of the stool

Tsarg - bars under the seat, creating a solid foundation; it is to them that the legs are attached;

Legs (supports) with a height of 45-50 cm and a cross-section of 35-50 mm;

Legs that serve to give the structure additional stability; It is better to place them not exactly in the center of the legs, but a little closer to the bottom;

Crackers: corners made of wood or metal, mounted in the corners under the seat (we'll talk about them a little lower).


Simple DIY stool

Advice! A utility stool can be made small – up to 260-280 mm high with a seat size of 260x260 mm.

Required tools and materials

To work with wood we will need:

Ready-made bars or dry board 200 mm wide (it will be more convenient to work with this size, it can be easily cut lengthwise into several 50 mm bars);

Roulette;

Square;

Fine-toothed hacksaw or power saw for cutting wood;

Rasp;

Chisel;

Drill or screwdriver: they not only fasten parts together, but also drill holes; you can replace it with a set of screwdrivers;

Self-tapping screws;

Sandpaper.

It’s great if you have a router available, with which you can quickly prepare the grooves and process the edges. Experienced craftsmen also use grinding machines - with wheels of different grain sizes. However, you can also use the usual old-fashioned method - select grooves and make tenons only with a chisel, jigsaw and rasp, and then sand the wood with sandpaper.


Grooving

Sawing and processing of parts

1. First, we need to get 4 pieces of equal size for legs, drawers and legs.

2. To obtain a stable structure, the bars should be cut strictly at 90°.

3. When calculating the sizes of the drawers and legs, do not forget that you must add the length of the tenons to their length (see the figure below).


Marking the legs

4. Our design should not have chips or tears, otherwise during use it will be easy to catch a hangnail. Therefore, after cutting the parts, carefully process with sandpaper No. 40-60, wound for convenience on the block, edges and cuts of workpieces. It is also necessary to clean out obvious irregularities.

5. Using sandpaper with a finer abrasive No. 80-120, and then No. 160-320, we again go through the entire plane of each part twice.

How to choose a groove and make tenons?

1. Connection using self-tapping screws is very unreliable - the stool will become loose very quickly. Therefore, to attach the legs and drawers, we will use a tongue-and-groove connection.

2. The simplest option is rectangular studs. Their width should be 1/3 of the thickness of the part, and their length should be about 80% of its thickness. That is, if the thickness of our leg is 20 mm, then we must make spike 16 mm long and 7 mm wide(multiply 20 by 1/3 and get 6.67 mm, round the figure to 7).


Rectangular tenon for connecting legs

3. So, we mark the location of the tenons on the drawers and legs.


Tongue-groove connection

4. Since it is much easier to fit a tenon than a groove, we start working with making grooves.

5. To drill them out, it is more convenient to use a drill or screwdriver. After making several holes (see photo), we select the excess wood between them with a very sharp chisel(with a blunt instrument you can only hurt yourself).

6. To make the walls even, you can attach a small block to the groove line - in this case, you can easily select a groove at 90°.

7. Of course, it is much easier to make tenons on a milling machine. But you can cut them out using the old-fashioned method of marking using the usual jigsaw and rasp, and if there is a jigsaw in the house, then things will go even faster.

8. Check the connection. It should be tight enough, and the tenon should fit into the groove tightly to the very end.

Assembling the stool

1. We assemble the legs in pairs, fastening them with drawers and legs. To check, first assemble the stool dry, without using glue. We check the accuracy of the dimensions of the parts and the correctness of their fit. We eliminate the identified shortcomings.


Checking the evenness of the parts in pairs

2. If there are no errors, disassemble the structure and drop a few drops into the holes of the grooves drops of glue, and then spread it on the walls with thin wood chips. After drying, you can additionally secure the connections with self-tapping screws.

3. To sitting It doesn’t warp quickly, it’s better to assemble it from several (5-7) boards up to 80 cm wide.

4. Glue the seat boards, coat them with glue on the sides, and tighten them clamps(tools for tightening and pressing parts tightly together).


We tighten the glued seat with clamps

5. Wait for the glue to dry completely.

6. Apply glue again, but on the back side of the seat, attach the seat to our stool, align the structure and press it tightly. We immediately remove excess glue.

7. In principle, the seat can be screwed or secured using wooden dowels (chops) 3 cm long.

8. To strengthen the back side of the seat, we attach small corners to the legs and drawers (they are called breadcrumbs) or use a furniture corner tie.


We attach corners (crackers) in the corners


Furniture tie for drawers


The structure can also be strengthened using ordinary bars attached to the inside of the stool in the drawer area

Plywood stool

You can make the simplest design from scraps of 3mm plywood for a summer house or garage in a couple of hours. Thinner sheets will quickly break under the weight of the human body. It is better to use birch plywood. It is easier to process, and products made from it are painted more evenly.

There is no point in explaining the manufacturing process in detail - the figure below shows in detail the order of cutting and assembly. All workpieces are cut with a saw by hand or with a jigsaw and thoroughly cleaned. The finished product can be varnished after assembly.


The simplest plywood stool


Children's stool made of plywood

Video: How to make a folding stool

Making a wooden stool yourself can be an interesting creative work or a simple household chore. It all depends on the model that needs to be made: from wooden parts or thick plywood, you can assemble with your own hands the simplest kitchen seat, a complex structure with transformer functions, or a designer product of an unusual look.

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General presentation of a wooden stool

Any wooden stool is the simplest item for sitting. The varieties of these products are so numerous that it is impossible to list them: from wooden logs, sawn smooth on the top side, to soft banquettes and ottomans.

The requirements for stools are the strength and practicality of each product.

When making different models of stools, exact dimensions are not required. You can make a small copy of a large product (for a child) or change the proportions - you get a kind of short bench or bar stool. It all depends on the requirements of the master, who makes a stool to suit his needs.

What will be required for production?

Creating homemade pieces of furniture allows the use of any available materials. The wood is quite cheap, easy to process and highly durable, meeting all the requirements of a carpenter when making a stool for the kitchen or cottage. Therefore, it is easiest to complete the work using lumber (timber, boards) or thick plywood. The product can combine both types of material.

Selection of materials

When creating furniture yourself, the quality of the material for making the product becomes of great importance. You can also make a stool from scraps of industrial wood or plywood scraps, but they must meet the following requirements:

  1. Plywood of the FSF or FK series is suitable for the stool. It is desirable that the thickness of the sheets be at least 2 cm. For the seat, it is better to use sanded or laminated plywood, otherwise the product will have to be processed manually.
  2. Solid lumber must be well dried (humidity no more than 20%), otherwise the product will dry out during use. For a stool, it is better to take inexpensive hardwood lumber (ash, linden, etc.) or furniture panel made from hardwood. When using coniferous (pine) boards, there is a risk of getting a product whose seat will stain clothes with resin.

Both plywood and solid wood should not have cracks or rotten spots. These defects affect the strength of the stool and spoil its appearance.

The elements cut according to the drawing must be assembled into a structure, connecting the parts of the legs, inserting drawers or legs into place. During preliminary assembly, it becomes clear where inaccuracies were made during marking and cutting. Using rasps and a hacksaw, the parts must be brought to full compliance with each other.

When using the tongue-and-groove method, you need to ensure that the protrusion on the part fits tightly into the recess intended for it. To achieve this, cut out a tenon slightly thicker than the size of the groove, and then finish the connection with a file. When all defects are found and eliminated, and the parts of the connections meet the requirements of the master, you can begin to assemble the stool.

It is important to know: assembly starts from the bottom. The legs of any model are connected in the required order and glued if necessary.

The seat is most often placed on dowels. To do this, drill a hole about 1.5 cm deep, and drive part of a wooden rod coated with glue into it. The remaining end is cut off, leaving 1.5 cm for connection with another part. Holes for dowels are drilled in the plane, glue is applied to the protruding parts of the rods and the seat is placed on the lower part of the stool. With this method, there are no traces of fastenings on the front surface. Assembly on tenons and dowels is considered more reliable than connecting parts with self-tapping screws: the product does not become loose during use.

If desired, the seat can be attached with self-tapping screws. The fasteners are screwed in from the front side, so the heads need to be buried in the wood. Subsequently, the pits are filled with a mixture of glue and sawdust, and then sanded.

Exterior finishing and decor

To make beautiful stools for the kitchen, wooden products are decorated by varnishing, painting or painting. A finishing option can be upholstery with furniture fabric, leatherette and similar materials. The upholstery can be combined with the placement of soft filling on the seat. In this case, the stool will be soft.

High bar models are sometimes complemented by a small back. It does not carry a practical load, being rather a decorative element. The seat of the stool itself can become a finishing detail: it can be cut from a cut of the trunk, given a concave shape, or covered with decorative carvings. Sometimes, instead of a wooden seat for a stool, they make a wicker fabric from durable materials or even assemble a mosaic from PET bottle caps.

Overview of DIY designs

Using diagrams for assembling products, you can assemble a stool quickly and easily. The duration of the work depends on the complexity of the chosen design: for the simplest ones, 1 day is enough, and more complex ones will require careful processing of the parts. But all the proposed options for making a stool will be within the capabilities of even a novice carpenter.

Classic stool

This is the most complex variety, which will require notches and tenons. But the design of such a stool has stood the test of time and is the most durable. For classic models, they used both solid oak and cheap wood, so you can make a stool from any boards 2-2.5 cm thick and 5x5 cm bars.

The algorithm for making a stool is as follows:

  1. Cut out 4 pieces each for the legs, drawers (seat supports) and legs (crossbars connecting the bottom of the legs). The parts must be the same, so it is better to make templates. The length of the drawer is determined by the desired size of the seat: it should be 10-15 cm less than the side of the square. The height of the legs of the stool can be any convenient for a person, and the angle of divergence of the legs downward depends on the length of the legs. If the length of the leg is equal to the drawer, the legs will stand vertically.
  2. The ends of the drawers and legs are designed in the form of tenons 2-2.5 cm long. To do this, part of the board needs to be cut down to form a protrusion narrower than the part itself. Grind the spikes with a rasp to the same size.
  3. Cut the legs for the stool from a block, remove part of the wood with a plane or knife in order to carefully and smoothly narrow the legs downwards. This is an optional part of the work, and the legs can be made the same thickness along the entire length.
  4. On two adjacent sides of the legs, mark recesses for the tenons of the drawers and legs. In this case, the upper edge of the drawer after assembly should coincide with the upper end of the stool leg. The legs are placed at a height of 15-20 cm from the floor; they can be made equal in height or one pair of opposing ones can be installed slightly higher than the other.
  5. It is convenient to select recesses with a chisel or drill, followed by finishing with a file. When selecting a groove, you need to make it a little smaller than necessary: ​​this will be useful for carefully fitting the parts.
  6. Adjust the tenons so that they fit tightly into the grooves. Assemble the structure, check whether the legs are the same length, eliminate defects and disassemble the base of the stool.
  7. Lubricating the tenons and grooves with PVA glue, reassemble the stool and tighten it with a strong cord, wrapping the places where the drawers and legs are installed. Dry for 24 hours.
  8. Make holes in the ends of the legs and the edges of the drawers and insert dowels using glue.
  9. Prepare the seat: cut, sand the edges and surface. On the inside of the seat, mark the position of the dowels and drill holes so that they are not through. Lubricate the dowels with glue and connect them to the seat. Tighten with a clamp and dry.
  10. Varnish or paint the finished stool.

A wooden transforming stool, when unfolded, can turn into a small staircase. To assemble such a model, you will need to cut out 2 identical U-shaped parts for the legs (they can be made higher than for a simple stool) and a seat, which also serves to connect the legs. In addition, you will need 1 rod made of a block or plank 2-2.5 cm thick and a steel pin with nuts. The length of the rod should be slightly greater than the distance between the parts of the stool legs.

For a folding stepladder, you need to cut out 2 pieces of sidewalls with 2 steps, 2 legs and 2 step planes. The height of the stepladder should be equal to 2/3 of the height of the stool. The product is assembled as follows:

  1. Connect the parts of the legs and the seat into a single structure. Fasteners - screws or dowels.
  2. Install a leg on one side of the stool, and on the opposite side, drill holes in the legs for a pin in the lower 1/3 of the height of the stool.
  3. Assemble the stepladder. Its width is slightly less than the distance between the legs of the stool. Connect the sidewalls by screwing the steps and the pedestals underneath them to them. Determine the location for the holes in the sidewalls and drill them. Pass the hairpin through the legs and the stepladder, combining the structure, and screw the nuts onto the ends of the rod.

When folding the transformer, the stepladder must be turned over, lifting its legs and placing them under the seat of the stool. If necessary, the ladder can be easily folded out.

With box

A kitchen stool can be combined with a container for vegetables. To do this, cut out 4 identical walls and a bottom of the required size from plywood or chipboard. Connect these parts with self-tapping screws, screwing them into the plane of one side and the edge of the next. Attach the bottom piece to the bottom.

For the seat, cut out a square whose side is larger than the size of the base box. Small furniture hinges are needed to secure the lid. If desired, the seat can be upholstered and made soft.

  1. Find the center of each leg and drill holes for the studs. Make one hole on the top of each leg.
  2. Fold the legs in pairs, thread the pin into the hole in the center and secure it with nuts on both sides of one pair of legs. Place another pair of legs on the other end of the rod, securing them in the same way.
  3. Install 2 studs in the upper holes, and immediately attach the seat support parts to one.
  4. Screw the seat part to the stool elements with hooks.

If everything is cut exactly and equally, the cuts of the hooks will fall on the ends of the free pin and the structure will be fixed in the unfolded position.

What do you do with old furniture?

A stool is one of the simplest types of furniture products. No matter what changes our life undergoes, it remains unchanged. Only the materials from which it is made change. In Soviet times, making a stool with your own hands was one of the first tasks in labor lessons. Not only boys knew carpentry. Sometimes representatives of the fair sex had to comprehend the basics of adult life and learn how to make a stool with their own hands. Modern furniture bears little resemblance to its counterparts from 50 years ago. Wooden stools of that time were rough, but durable. They fit perfectly into the interior of the kitchen, as well as other rooms. Nowadays there is a rich assortment of different types of furniture in stores, but there are also amateurs who want to learn how to make a stool with their own hands. And in our time of abundance of building materials, this will not be difficult at all.

The main parts of a stool are the seat and legs. The legs are tied at the top with drawers, and at the bottom with leggings. Having become familiar with the terms, you can start drawing. First, you need to decide on the sizes. When making a stool, it is better to start from old, but reliable models that can be found in every home. Having measured the height and other parameters, you can begin to develop a diagram. If you don’t have a sample, then for an adult stool the size of the seat side will be 300-450mm, for a child’s stool - 250-280mm. Homemade stools should be even more comfortable than store-bought ones. If only because you can choose the height according to yourself. Usually the size for adults is 420-480mm, for children - 260-280mm. You must have drawings of stools with you, whether it is a diagram from the Internet or drawn up by you. After all, eliminating defects on paper is much easier than redoing the whole job.

Materials and tools

Making a stool will require high-quality materials that have stood the test of time. In the first place, of course, is wood. Wooden stools rank first in terms of convenience and second after forged ones in terms of durability. The wood should be dried in room conditions at 20-30 degrees; you should not use kiln-dried wood, as the possibility of cracking cannot be ruled out. After air drying, the material needs to be dried at home at room temperature for about a month. It is best to take hardwood: maple, birch, beech, wenge, hemlock, mahogany. Or make legs from them, which carry the main load, and the seat from pine, spruce, MDF, chipboard or plywood.

Chipboard is one of the cheapest, but unreliable materials. It has advantages, such as moisture resistance. But when making a stool, strength is much more important, and chipboard has insufficient strength, and it is also too fragile for furniture, although there are a couple of options in which the pressure on chipboard can be reduced. But the constant release of formaldehyde resins, which make this material unsafe, unfortunately, cannot be completely eliminated.

MDF is an environmentally friendly material and quite durable. However, when making kitchen furniture with your own hands, it is better to use it in combination with hardwood, especially in the supports, that is, in fact, it is used only for the seat, or lid, as it is called in some sources.

A good substitute for wood is plywood, but then you will have to do a little magic with the design. Kitchen stools made from plywood are made from 3 parts, or from 4, so-called box-shaped. This design is now very common, especially in the furniture industry. Although it is perfect for making a stool with your own hands.

Tools are selected depending on the materials. To make wooden stools, we will need:

  • roulette
  • self-tapping screws
  • screwdriver
  • square
  • jigsaw
  • chisel
  • emery
  • wood glue

How to make a classic stool yourself

In order to make a wooden stool with your own hands, we will need material (boards, bars) and tools. If you don’t have a jigsaw and there’s no way to buy one, then we do this: we buy an inexpensive frame hacksaw for metal and direct its teeth toward you when working. So, the scheme is ready, the materials have been purchased and, if necessary, dried, the tools have been prepared - you can start. Before starting work, you can make so-called “patterns” out of paper, that is, life-size parts of the future stool cut out of paper. You don’t have to do this, whatever is more convenient for you.

Click to enlarge

We start with the legs, they will have a square section of 50x50mm. Let's cut off 4 identical parts from the block, let's say 450mm long. Then assemble a seat from a single piece or from two halves, ours is 380x380, the thickness of the board is 20 mm. Next, we cut out 4 drawers to connect the legs of the stool and 4 legs. We will also need four bars for an additional connection between the drawers and the seat. The structure is assembled according to the principle: tenon and groove, tenons are cut along the edges of the drawers, and grooves are cut on the legs of the future stool. The length of the tenon and the depth of the groove are approximately 20-25mm. We do the same with the legs, which will subsequently be attached to the legs. You can mark the details ahead of time for clarity.

We sand it before the parts are assembled; this is both convenient and safe. We assemble all the parts at the beginning without glue, adjusting and, if necessary, filing them. Then we coat the parts one by one with glue and assemble them. We fasten the bars between the drawers with self-tapping screws to the bottom of the seat “tightly”. To do this, we will take care of the length of the fasteners in advance. I would like to say a few words about the glue that we will use to coat the grooves.

It is better to take special glue, carpentry glue. This glue has proven itself for many years. If you don’t have it, then you can take PVA, but not the stationery type for paper, but the one that is suitable for wood.

Other types

There are stools that are much easier to make than classic ones. A very common option now is a stool, consisting of four parts: a seat, two wide legs and a reinforcing crossbar (or jumper). This option should not be difficult, especially in assembly. Wood, thick plywood, and laminated chipboard are suitable for it. This structure is secured with furniture screws and glue for additional fixation. This option is very simple, but there is one subtlety: the reinforcing crossbar should be in the shape of a trapezoid with a 5mm bevel. This is necessary to make the structure more stable.

You can try your hand at making a lightweight stool. In this version, there are no side drawers and the legs are attached directly to the grooves of the seat. For this purpose, the seat cover is made of thick material. The grooves are made directly into the seat or bars are attached to it. In this case, the legs are made thicker than usual. Of course, such a stool will take much less time than a regular one.

Another type of stool is a seat and two legs arranged crosswise at an angle of 90 degrees. In this version there are no additional parts, where the structure itself consists of 4 parts. In this case, we can again use wood, plywood, and pressed boards. If we settle on a wooden model, then we do the final touch after final assembly. We carefully sand the stool again, and then treat it as desired with stain, varnish or paint.

Decorating your stool

Your stool can be decorated depending on the interior items where it will be located. You can apply a design on the surface of the seat with spray paint using a stencil. Then coat the surface with varnish. Or make a bold design move and decorate a retro stool using decoupage. It’s labor-intensive, but effective, and you can involve the whole family in this interesting activity. To do this, we will need PVA stationery glue, beautiful napkins and varnish, preferably acrylic. The result will tell not only about your accuracy, but also reveal your taste. In the end, you can decorate just the seat by laying thin foam for softness. Then decorate it with beautiful fabric and decorate it with accessories to your taste. As they say, everything is in your hands!


Humanity never tires of inventing the stool.
And this time the fight against triviality and banality had a positive effect. There was little imagination and material available, but a lot of simple tools. This allowed the author to create an original design without a single nail or screw.

Tools used:
1) pencil;
2) eraser;
3) ruler;
4) triangle;
5) stationery knife;
6) hammer;
7) electric jigsaw;
8) manual jigsaw;
9) screwdriver;
10) two clamps;
11) file for wood;
12) coarse and fine grit sandpaper;
13) pattern.

Materials needed:
1) a sheet of whatman paper;
2) a sheet of plywood 15 mm thick, 2nd grade.

Manufacturing process:

Step one. Preparing the template.
On a white sheet of whatman paper, using a ruler, a triangle and a pattern, we draw sketches of the two parts that will make up the stool. The one on the left is the side of the structure, the one on the right is part of the seat; these parts will connect the sidewalls. The first part is obtained as follows: a rectangle measuring 42 cm * 36 cm is drawn, inside it are the contours of the sidewall, the width of the upper parts of which is 4.5 cm, and eleven grooves with a width slightly less than the thickness of the plywood, i.e. 1, 5 cm. Their depth is 2.2 cm. The length and width of the second part are 48 cm and 4.5 cm, respectively.


Step two. Cutting out the template.
After drawing, we cut out the parts with a stationery knife with great precision.


Step three. Drawing on plywood.
We place the resulting templates on a sheet of plywood 15 mm thick and trace them: large - twice, small - eleven times. The lines turned out not bright, but quite pronounced.


Step four. Sawing out parts.
Now comes the central moment in the entire manufacturing process: it is necessary to obtain the details of the intended design. To do this, use an electric jigsaw to cut them out along the outlined contours. But the author cut out the lower boundaries of the grooves with a manual jigsaw, since it is much more difficult to do the same with an electric one.



Step five. Grinding.
The sawn parts should be given a pleasant and aesthetic appearance. Clamping the crossbars with two clamps, we first level them with a file, and then process them with coarse and fine-grain sandpaper.




Step six. Assembling the stool.
Now all the parts are ready for assembly. Therefore, first we hammer in the two lower crossbars using a hammer and a wooden block, then the remaining upper ones. Since the grooves are cut to a width slightly smaller than the thickness of the plywood, the crossbars will fit into them very tightly. The stool is ready.






Conclusion.
The result is a rather original, beautiful stool. The bottom bars allow you to use it as a coffee table or a cat bed if you place a sheet of plywood on them. The disassembly of the stool is a plus for the time being. With an increase in the number of assemblies and disassemblies of such a constructor, there is a decrease in stability and, as a result, the stool itself. Also, the need to grab it by the top bars and rearrange it leads to the stool becoming loose. For greater reliability, when assembling the product, you can place the parts on wood glue.

An ordinary wooden stool is guaranteed to be in every home. Despite the fact that the simple design is noticeably inferior in terms of comfort to modern armchairs, such pieces of furniture do not lose their relevance.

The stool looks equally at home in the kitchen, garage and country house; it is ideal for small apartments and always comes to the rescue if there are a lot of guests who need to be placed at the table.

Making a wooden stool with your own hands is not difficult. There is no backrest or armrests here, so it is better for craftsmen who plan to make their own furniture to start with such designs.

Where to begin

It is immediately necessary to clarify that there are several options for homemade stools. The product can be folded or combine the function of a stepladder; there are high chairs and practical benches, complemented by drawers. If we talk about a classic stool, it consists of the following elements:

  • a rectangular or square seat with a side of 300 mm; a round seat with a radius of about 350 mm is often made;
  • legs - 4 pieces, made of rectangular timber 400-500 mm high;
  • drawers - the upper trim of the legs in the amount of 4 pieces, giving the structure the necessary rigidity;
  • The legs are additional stiffening ribs that are installed in the middle of the support posts.

A simple design involves straight wooden legs. They are the easiest to cut and secure. This is exactly what the configuration of an ordinary wooden stool looks like, capable of taking its rightful place in the kitchen. The sizes vary and depend on the height of who will most often use such furniture and for what purpose, but most often the height is about 40 cm.

Before production, you must carefully study the drawing. You can take a ready-made version from the Internet or draw it yourself by hand. A simple diagram will help you not to miss anything.

Selecting materials

Having prepared drawings and diagrams of a plywood stool, which is supposed to be made with your own hands, you can begin preparing the raw materials. Of course, plywood is used as a seat only in cases where high loads are not expected. In other cases, it is better to give preference to denser wood, such as edged boards.

There are no strict requirements here, but experienced home craftsmen do not recommend choosing alder, aspen, willow and poplar for homemade products. These are soft wood species that quickly lose their original properties upon prolonged contact with a humid environment.

Good stool seats are made from coniferous trees: pine, spruce. Oak, birch or maple bars are more suitable for making legs. If there is no suitable wood, the landing part can be made from chipboard, but here you need to take into account that the fibrous structure makes the material fragile, therefore, you will have to be careful when processing.

Required Tools

Stools are made using various technologies from wood, plywood, and chipboard. In any case, for production you will need:

  • roulette;
  • square;
  • fasteners: screws or nails;
  • wood hacksaw;
  • drill with a set of drills;
  • screwdriver or screwdriver.

To make wood processing easier, it is recommended to use a circular saw or milling machine rather than a hand saw. It is convenient to cut plywood with a jigsaw. In order for a wooden stool to turn out beautiful, all parts must be sanded, and after assembly they must be painted or covered with stain or varnish. Treatment with a nylon sanding attachment and staining will give the wooden product an antique look.

Assembly steps

First you need to make blanks for the seat. It makes sense to take a board 200 mm wide and cut two pieces 400 mm long. If you put them together, you get a perfect square. The boards are usually glued together with PVA wood glue and clamped in a special clamp for boards (vamp).

Then four blanks for the legs are cut from a square block with a cross-section of 3 x 3 cm. The height of the stool is determined individually, depending on the preferences of family members, but if the length of the leg is less than 40 cm, it will not be very uncomfortable for an adult to sit on such a product.

Drawers and legs can be made from the remnants of the board, spreading it lengthwise to create parts 100 mm wide. A total of 8 such elements will be required, the length is determined by the distance between the inner sides of the legs and is about 350 mm. After sawing, all prepared parts are treated with sandpaper to remove burrs and irregularities.

To assemble a stool from prepared parts, the legs are marked at the locations where the frames and stiffeners are installed. In accordance with the markings, holes are drilled for self-tapping screws, after which the parts are fastened together. For additional adhesion, glue is used.

The stool seat boards are installed on the finished frame, which are also fixed with self-tapping screws.

At the final stage, the product is varnished or painted. If desired, the seat can be made soft by placing a piece of foam rubber and covering it with leatherette on top.

Plywood stool

If, after renovation, a large sheet of plywood with a thickness of 9-15 mm remains in the apartment, it can be turned into a small stool, which can be useful in the garage or while fishing. The advantage is that it creates a lightweight, collapsible stool that is convenient to take on trips. The chair is made according to the following scheme.

Two U-shaped posts are cut out of a sheet of plywood. The width of the legs is about 5 cm, the upper crossbar is 10-15 cm thick. The length of the legs is chosen arbitrarily, depending on personal preferences. A protrusion 15 cm long and 2.5 cm high is left on the top surface of each rack.

A cut is made in the central part of the transverse strip of each rack. The cutout should be in the lower and upper parts so that the supporting elements are connected to each other during assembly.

Two identical squares are cut out to serve as a seat. A cross-shaped cut is made in the part that will be installed on the legs, corresponding in length to the protrusion left on the posts.

The stool is assembled as follows. The racks are joined with grooves crosswise. The seat parts are glued together and installed on the seat groove.

Folding stool

A folding wooden stool is a rather complex, but more functional and practical design. It is suitable for cottages, fishing and city apartments. To make a folding stool from wood with your own hands, prepare a drawing that determines the shape of the seat and the dimensions of the main parts. Such products look most interesting if the seat has a round shape, but this point remains at the discretion of the master.

As in the previous case, blanks for the stool are cut out of wood according to the prepared drawing. However, when making legs you need to take into account 2 nuances.

When assembled, the legs will be arranged crosswise, so the supporting elements are conventionally divided into an internal and external frame. The bars that will be used to make the internal frame must have an angle of 30 degrees at the point of contact with the seat. If you do not take this point into account, the chair will turn out to be unstable.

The legs are drilled through the middle. There will be a pin running through here, connecting the posts together and simplifying the folding process.

When the blanks are cut, you can start assembling. Markings are made on the inside of the seat for installing hinges. The outer legs usually have a wide distance between them and are located closer to the edge of the seat. The internal racks are placed a little further from the center, closer to each other. After marking, loops are screwed to the legs, then the posts are connected to the seat.

The structure is brought into the assembled position, a pin is passed into the drilled groove, which is fixed on both sides with nuts. The finished chair is varnished or painted.

Children's bench

A small high chair will be useful not only for kids, but also for adults. The attractiveness of this model lies in its compact dimensions and light weight, so even a child can move his bench to a place convenient for playing.

It is recommended to use linden for production. This array has a beautiful natural texture and low density, which allows you to reduce the weight of a small stool without losing strength. The bench consists of only 3 elements: a seat and two racks. The optimal starting material is a board 30-40 mm thick. It is better to make the legs carved, which will give the chair an original appearance.

It is important to understand here that products for children should not have sharp corners, so it is recommended that all components be given a rounded shape. The parts are fastened together with dowels; additional fasteners are usually not required. After assembly, the product must be carefully sanded so that the baby does not get a splinter.

Stool with drawer

This model is made by analogy with a classic wooden stool, but has a small drawer that can be used to store various household items. To do this, the drawers are made from a full-size board, the width of which will determine the depth of the box. It is better to place additional stiffening ribs not in the middle, but in the lower part of the support posts, so that the finished product has a symmetrical shape.

The seat of the stool is made of chipboard or thick plywood; a curved hole is cut out in the middle part, which will be convenient to grasp with your hand when opening the lid. The seat itself is placed on 2 hinges, the bottom wall of the box is filled with a sheet of thin plywood, cut to the size of the walls.

Some home craftsmen create more complex options. In particular, the top cover is made monolithic and tightly attached to the legs and drawers. The box is made retractable and installed on metal guides.

Step stool

Quite an interesting option, which consists of two articulated parts. During production, the general concept of a folding stool is retained, but with some differences. In particular, a high bar stool with long legs is made. The structure is assembled according to the standard scheme: seat, drawers and 4 legs.

Then a small ladder of 2-3 steps is made from thick plywood, depending on the height of the stool. The total length of the ladder is calculated so that when folded it fits completely under the seat. Holes are drilled in the two legs of the stool through which two pins will be passed connecting the stool and the ladder.

Wicker seat

To create a stool with a wicker seat, you only need to assemble a frame from bars: four legs, upper and middle crossbars. To give the structure a more elegant look, it is better to make the support posts carved, like a figured bas-relief. The frame can be made square, rectangular or round.

The function of the seat will be performed by belts: leather trouser belts or synthetic ones, which are used for safety in cars. The straps are stretched along the length of the frame, the edges are folded to the inside, secured with decorative nails. Then, according to a similar pattern, a transverse row is stretched. Thus, the belts are intertwined with each other, forming a pattern.

Even an ordinary wooden stool, made by a skilled craftsman, can turn into a real work of art. A little work - and the wooden block left after cutting down the trees turns into two spectacular stools on 3 legs. For those who love original things, you can make a homemade chair seat in the shape of a puzzle. Three or four of these chairs, placed in a row, will form a bench; if necessary, the structure can be easily divided into separate seats.

There are no standard solutions in handicraft production, so the shape and size of the product depend only on the imagination of the craftsman.