Replacing the water supply riser in the apartment: work procedure and instructions. Proper replacement of water pipes in the apartment with your own hands. Material selection Types of piping

Rotted old plumbing in the apartment. Perspiration on the pipes, fistula after fistula; turn off the water, and then turn it on again - rust is gushing from the taps. And it is planned to repair the kitchen with a bathroom, and the old pipes are not something to touch or breathe - it's scary to look at them. We need to change, but the work is expensive. Is it possible to replace the apartment plumbing with your own hands? Yes, you can, and without any permits-designs. It will only be necessary to agree with the DEZ locksmith to shut off the water supply to the risers for a maximum of an hour; most likely, it will be possible to manage in 10 minutes. Or warn the neighbors, if not harmful, and block / re-apply yourself.

Replacement procedure

The replacement of the water supply is carried out in a certain sequence. Work "by eye" and "on the go" in non-professional performance often ends in a leak. The work plan is something like this:

1. Choice of material for new pipes.
2. Choice of hot and cold water distribution scheme.
3. Development of a water supply scheme for an apartment.
4. Calculation of the diameter of pipes according to the selected material and scheme.
5. Preparation of the mounting tool.
6. Purchase of materials.
7. Assembly of selection and accounting units, their installation on risers and registration.
8. Dismantling of old pipes and plumbing fixtures.
9. Connection of HMS and aquastop, if provided.
10. Connecting a flask filter (with HMS is required).
11. Installation of hot and cold water pipes.
12. Installation and connection of plumbing, old or new.
13. Test water supply; elimination of identified defects.
14. Installation and connection of the boiler.

HMS, flask filter and aquastop

HMS, or hydromagnetic system, has long been used in industry to prepare water for filtration. In everyday life, this device, without going into details, converts impurities in water into a fine suspension, which then settles in the filter in the form of sludge and is periodically removed. HMS is absolutely harmless, does not require power supply and maintenance during operation, but it necessarily requires the installation of a water meter in an antimagnetic design (these are more expensive) and, after the water flow, a combined flask filter.

The flask filter consists of three sections connected in series: the first one collects sludge, the second one removes chlorine, and the third one is used for fine purification of water and its softening. The latter (no one has been drinking tap water for a long time) is especially important for the washing machine boiler.

HMS with flasks cost a lot, but they protect well not only equipment, but also health. Complain or not, be indignant - do not be indignant, and drinking water is firmly held in the ten most scarce resources in the world, and there are no global programs that can bring its quality to the level of at least the middle of the last century, and are not foreseen. In general, the salvation of drowning people is the work of the drowning people themselves.

Aquastop is also a useful device, it also does not require power supply and maintenance, but its function is different. With a sharp increase in current (breakthrough) of water, the aquastop is triggered and its valve cuts off the entire apartment from the riser. Aquastops come in different systems, including electrodynamic ones, so an anti-magnetic counter is also needed when installing an aquastop.

Pipe selection

A new plumbing in an apartment begins with the choice of pipes. Steel in everyday life has become obsolete, and you have to choose from metal-plastic, plastic and brazed copper. This stage of work is perhaps the most responsible - the wrong choice will nullify all the efforts, expenses and troubles.

Copper

One can say about copper water pipes right away: their propagandists do not know what they are talking about. Or they know, but they don’t set themselves. Firstly, copper oxide forms on copper in contact with water - the same verdigris that Tom Sawyer talked about to Huckleberry Finn. Yes, a person needs copper, but in negligible amounts in the form of a microelement, and not as part of a strong poison. As a counterargument, they say that copper forms a protective film with chlorine from water. Absurd for anyone who remembers at least school chemistry.

Secondly, the composition of the solder for copper includes tin. White tin, a soft metal, over time turns into its other, as chemists say, allotropic modification - gray tin, a crumbly powder. That is, by installing copper pipes (very expensive), we thereby 100% guarantee leakage. And the payment for the work of a company specializing in copper pipes, since it is impossible to solder them correctly on your own.

metal-plastic

Metal-plastic pipes are quite expensive, but they can be connected by hand without experience. Metal-plastic plumbing is assembled on special threaded assemblies with gaskets or under crimping - fittings. In addition, metal-plastic pipes can be smoothly bent. Hydrodynamic resistance and pressure loss in metal-plastic are very small.

To insert a pipe into a fitting, you need a pipe cutter, press tongs and a set of reamers (reamers) for the diameter of the pipes. With their help, work goes effortlessly, and with improvised means - a full guarantee of leakage. In addition, the life of gaskets in fittings is limited, and over time, the joint begins to drip. Therefore, bricking metal-plastic into walls is unacceptable, and it is strongly recommended not to hide it in strobes.

It is recommended to conduct water supply with metal-plastic in separate open areas, where the minimum resistance to water flow and the possibility of a simple and quick bulkhead of the joint are important: when connecting a boiler, washing machine, sink, etc. Adapters from metal-plastic to other types of pipes are always on sale.

Plastic

Plastic apartment plumbing has now become the standard, but plastics are different. To make the right choice, you need to know their properties and features.

Polybutylene (PB)

Flexible plastic with good thermal conductivity for plastic. Holds temperatures up to 90 degrees. A properly soldered joint is absolutely reliable. Pretty expensive. Used for underfloor heating.

Polyethylene (PE)

Cheap, but for hot water, polyethylene reinforced pipes are needed; ordinary polyethylene does not hold 60 degrees. It is impossible to bend and glue, the soldered joint reliably holds a pressure of no more than 3.5 atm, and the water pressure in the city water supply can be up to 6 atm (0.6 Mbar) for cold water and 4.5 atm for hot water, so that there is a possibility of a sudden breakthrough. Hydraulic resistance, however, is the smallest of all.

It seems that polyethylene pipes are bad for everyone, but they have an advantage that can be worth all their shortcomings: they are not afraid of freezing. The ice cork bursts them, and when it melts, they shrink again, and do not burst, even if you crack. Therefore, the installation of a polyethylene water supply system is strongly recommended in unheated, seasonal and underground premises. There is no alternative to polyethylene. But with a constantly filled system, an aquastop is needed.

PVC (PVC)

The properties of polyvinyl chloride (PVC) are well known: chemically resistant, inexpensive, heat resistant up to 80 degrees, easy to glue, but not very strong and afraid of ultraviolet radiation. Joints, both soldered and glued, come out more brittle than solid material, so the danger of a breakthrough remains and an aquastop is needed. Replacing individual sections of glued PVC, of ​​course, is more difficult than for collapsible metal-plastic, but easier than for soldered joints: heating the joint with a household hair dryer, the joint can be separated, and then glued again. In general, the option is budgetary or for a novice master with a length of the main branch from the riser to the farthest draw point of no more than 10 m and with no more than 7 sampling points.

Propylene (PP)

Laying an apartment water supply with polyisopropylene pipes (propylene) is now generally accepted. The material is not very expensive, durable, resistant, soldered joints retain all the qualities of the base, heat resistance - up to 130 degrees, properly soldered holds up to 12 atm. The hydraulic resistance is higher than that of PVC, but anyway, the accumulation of plaque in the lumen is minimal, and with HMS it is excluded. There are only two disadvantages when doing it yourself:

• It does not stick, and soldering requires special equipment and strict adherence to technology.
• It has a fairly high coefficient of thermal expansion. Immured in a wall or hidden in a strobe, it can bend and break the tile, therefore, when laying each pipe, you need to put on a stocking made of merylon or synthetic winterizer, which increases the cost of work.

However, the propylene pipeline is by far the only one that can be done once and for all and forgotten. Therefore, we will dwell on the soldering of propylene separately, especially since the soldering of other plastics differs only in a lower temperature (110-130 degrees for polyethylene and about 150 for PVC).

Propylene soldering

Soldering propylene with a handicraft “iron” soldering iron end-to-end (see the figure on the right) is unacceptable:

1. Pollution accumulates on the “sausage” inside, and the pipeline assembled in this way is more prone to clogging than steel.
2. The pressure of the water, bursting the pipes, tends to break the joint. At 16 degrees in the pipe and 20-25 outside, after about three months the fatigue threshold of the material is surpassed, and the joint flows.

The assembly of the propylene pipeline is carried out on fittings for soldering - straight (for connecting pipe sections), angular, tees, crosses. The pipe heated to softening is inserted into the holder of the also heated fitting, and the joint freezes. In this case, water pressure, on the contrary, presses the pipe against the casing from the inside, providing strength, and only sealing remains for the fused zone. The rather high rigidity of propylene does not allow the clip covering the pipe to expand elastically. It is this design of the connection, combined with the properties of the material, that makes the propylene pipeline suitable for immuring into walls for decades.

Note: a more or less decent soldering iron for propylene costs at least 2000 rubles. and is still unsuitable for something, but does not wear out from work. Therefore, you do not need to buy it, it is better to rent it.

• For hidden wiring in a typical apartment in strobes or monolithic - definitely propylene.
• For branches of great length with a large number of points of water intake - open metal-plastic or in channels with removable covers.
• For country houses, seasonal rental housing, country houses with remote outbuildings, greenhouses, etc. - polyethylene.
• For budget repairs or in areas with a shortage of water, low pressure in the water supply, with poor quality water - PVC.

Wiring diagram

Collectors-combs

There are two schemes for drawing water in the premises: serial and parallel. With a serial scheme, the points of analysis are connected to a common pipe through tees. This scheme is the most economical, but with a long wiring length, a large number of parsing points and / or with low water pressure, it is not suitable, as it greatly reduces pressure.

In this case, the water intake is done in parallel from the “comb” collector, see fig. A comb is an assembly of bypass valves, from each of which there is a solid branch to its point of analysis. The valves regulate the pressure separately by points. The branches to the points are made of metal-plastic or polyethylene: in this case, their low hydraulic resistance plays a role, and when laid in a single piece, they are quite reliable.

Development of a water intake scheme

The water supply scheme in the apartment is needed primarily for oneself, so as not to get confused, not to miscalculate, and then to know exactly where everything is - no special permission is required for this work. But when registering the meter, the water utility inspector may ask you to look at the diagram, so you need to draw it correctly.

A complete scheme according to all the rules is a serious job for a knowledgeable specialist; for example - in the large figure, the water supply scheme of a private house with a summer kitchen, which is necessary for the project to be approved. But to replace the pipes in the apartment, you don’t need to bother like that, it’s enough that the diagram clearly shows and understands:

1. Hot and cold water pipes, their type and lumen diameter.
2. Metering devices.
3. Emergency valves and drains.
4. Stop valve.
5. Points of analysis with indication of consumers.
6. Backup branches and devices.
7. Direction of water flow.

To make all this clear not only to yourself, or to yourself a year later, certain rules must be observed when drawing. Let's look at examples, see fig. On the left - more or less okay, but with comments, on the right - wrong:

• The scheme on the right is made in isometry - for beauty, or what? The intersections of the pipes confuse her, and she does not give an idea of ​​\u200b\u200bthe real location of the analysis points: the washing machine with the boiler comes out under the floor.
• There are also too many current arrows where it is already clear where it flows, which also confuses the circuit.
• In the same place, shut-off valves with metering devices are depicted indistinctly and not according to the rules.
• In the same place - the type and diameter of the pipes are not indicated.
• In the same place - who, where and when saw that water was supplied to the boiler from above, and the toilet was flushed through the ebb?
• But in the diagram on the left, it’s not even clear to a specialist that the boiler (6) is a backup. The remark will be: “Where is the check valve for hot? Without it, when the supply is stopped, the boiler will drive its own into the hot riser if the valve (10) is not closed. But this is already in essence and with full understanding.

Correct simplified plumbing scheme in the apartment

An example is arbitrarily, not according to the rules for designing design documentation, but completely understandable and without frills, the completed water intake scheme is shown in the following figure. This is also an example of a parallel drawdown; where the combs, of course.

Pipe calculation

Before finally choosing pipes, you need to calculate at least approximately their diameter. This is not necessary for "smartness" - the narrower the pipe, the cheaper it is, on the one hand. On the other hand, a too small diameter pipe for a water supply will cause turbulence in the flow in it. At the same time, the throughput of the pipe drops sharply, and at normal pressure at the inlet from the tap it will barely ooze.

The exact calculation of the pipeline is a matter of highly qualified specialists, but for a city apartment, in order to flow normally, you can figure it out yourself. The initial data is:

1. The minimum allowable pressure is 0.3 at.
2. Pressure loss per 1 m of a 16 mm propylene pipe - 0.05 at.
3. The average pressure loss for apartment wiring per unit of fittings and fittings is 0.15 at.
4. Pressure loss in the selection and accounting unit - 0.25 at.
5. With normal values ​​​​of pressure at the inlet to the riser of 1.5-4.5 atm, periodic turbulence is inevitable in a 12 mm pipe, and is not observed in 16 mm pipes.
6. The headroom for the farthest point is at least two times.

It remains to find out the pressure (pressure) at the inlet, and you can determine whether, with the serial wiring of such a running pipe, there will be enough pressure for the farthest faucet or you will have to take it wider and more expensive. The pressure at the bottom of the riser can be obtained from the pressure gauge in the basement or from the building operator; then subtract 0.6 atm per floor. You can also estimate for neighbors based on the same 0.6 at / floor: if, say, three floors up from the taps, it still flows, then we have a good 2 at. But in high-rise buildings, such a trick does not work: in order not to overly increase the cost of apartment wiring, they make separate risers for the lower and upper, and even for the lower, middle and upper floors.

Calculation example: the second floor of a nine-story building; the residents of the upper floors do not complain about the water. We have at least 4 at pressure. 11 units of fittings (5 tees, 6 elbows, 1 valve) give 1.65 atm losses. The length of the pipe from the riser to the far wall of the kitchen is 6.5 m, which is another 0.325 atm of loss. In total, with the selection and accounting unit, we have 0.325 + 1.65 + 0.25 = 2.225 atm of losses. Too much, you need to check the pressure with a pressure gauge and, most likely, take the main pipe 20-25 mm, or get divorced in parallel from the comb, otherwise you can stay “dry” in the dry summer.

Note: from this it is clear how important it is to straighten the pipes and how undesirable they are to lengthen and clutter up with fittings.

The dependence of losses in pipes and fittings is non-linear: they depend on the flow velocity, which, in turn, depends on the cross section of the pipe lumen. A slight increase in the diameter of the pipe drastically reduces losses, so the usual 20 mm pipe wiring for apartments with taps to 16 mm points works well in most cases. In difficult cases, an accurate calculation can be made according to SNiP, internal water supply and sewerage of buildings. There are all the necessary formulas and nomograms; the calculation can be done by a person with an engineering education of any profile.

You just need to keep in mind that on this account there are already three SNiPs with the same index: 2.04.01-85, 2.04.01-85 (2000) and 2.04.01-85 * “(Domestic water supply and drainage systems in buildings) ". Correct - SNiP last.

Tools, materials, dismantling of the old

Special tools for assembling apartment pipelines are described above in the course of the presentation. For the purchase of materials, of course, you will need to calculate the footage, nomenclature and quantity in place. Dismantling of old pipes is done in the usual ways. It is better to do it after installing and registering the water meter, so as not to turn off the water to the floors for a long time.

We will give only one piece of advice: do not take valves with a lever. It is made of silumin or plastic and tends to break off at the most inopportune moment, just when you need to urgently close it. Take ball valves with a butterfly handle. Round corrugated handles also do not break, but wet or sweaty hands slide on them.

Accounting and control

The selection and accounting unit consists of a shut-off valve, a coarse filter, a water meter and a check valve. Assembled as shown in the picture. Each of the devices indicates the direction of the water flow for it, it must be observed during assembly.

The assembly is assembled with waterproofing of the connections with the FUM tape and is also connected to the riser, having previously blocked the water; Remember to close the shut-off valve before supplying water. This is the only operation, and a short-term one, requiring turning off the water supply to neighbors in the riser.

Separate meter units are needed for cold and hot water. It is highly desirable that the counters and valve handles be highlighted in color. The meter readings should be clearly readable without any additional operations (hatch removal, etc.), so it is often necessary to pre-assemble a part of an integral pipeline, sometimes of a rather bizarre configuration, to connect metering devices to the riser. In addition to pipes and a soldering iron, for this you will need transitional couplings from plastic to metal MPV - a threaded inner coupling. Plastic is connected to metering units using MRN - external threaded couplings.

The meters are sold sealed, but this does not mean that you can immediately call the water utility and pay for water according to consumption. The factory seal is for this (the Russian land is rich in craftsmen) so that no one gets into the meter and twists or files anything there. The factory seal must be protected; without it, the meter is considered unusable, as well as without a certificate for it.

When installing water meters, you need to declare to the water utility and call its inspector. You can use water before he arrives, the inspector does not need zero readings, he will write down the initial ones, seal the meter and filter drain with his seal. Payment for water consumption will go after registration of metering devices.

HMS, aquastop, filter

Although the design of the HMS is non-separable and does not allow stealing water with its help, and this device cannot be sealed, connecting the HMS to the meter is unacceptable: the meter impeller can become clogged with sludge. HMS with a flask filter is connected after metering devices; filter - immediately after HMS. An aquastop can be connected immediately after the filter, but if it is electrodynamic, the magnetic field of the HMS can cause its false operation, but it makes no sense to attribute the aquastop far from the riser: it does not react to a breakthrough before it.

Video: an overview of the layout options for plumbing elements

Pipeline installation

So, now we do the plumbing. The assembly of pipes has already been described, but the installation of the entire system also has non-construction features, such as the arrangement of channels in the screed. The latter should pass no further than 150 mm from the wall and no closer than 200 mm to the furniture. Plumbing fixtures, of course, are removed before starting pipe laying.

First of all, you need to install arcs - plastic strips with MRV squares for mixers. They are attached to the main wall with self-tapping screws in dowels. When attaching, you need to take into account the thickness of the finish: plaster and tile or other decorative coating.

Without a lot of building experience, it is very difficult to achieve the location of the outlet nozzles flush with the wall. It is better to make them PROPERTIES above the finished wall half the width of the side of the decorative mixer caps in advance: if the caps are unregulated, they can be easily adjusted on an emery wheel or manually on an emery bar.

The next moment is the assembly of pipeline sections. The most convenient way is to assemble it on the table and put it entirely in strobes. But then the question arises: how to run pipes through walls? There are no problems with metal-plastic, it is all on detachable fittings, and for brazed pipes, two methods can be offered:

• With the help of MPH / MRV adapters and metal-plastic inserts. In an apartment, this is quite reliable, and in the corners above the strobes, you can make removable hatches for revision and repair of threaded connections.
• Install pipelines locally. This requires a compact soldering iron. This one is more expensive, and you need to work in cotton gloves so as not to accidentally burn yourself.

The fourth point is soldering. One solder takes 15 mm of pipe. That is, if there is exactly 1 m between two fittings, you need to cut 1030 mm; if 0.6 m - 630 mm etc.

The fifth point is the bending of metal-plastic pipes. The minimum allowable bending radius is 5 outer diameters of the pipe. You can come across recommendations: they say, put a spring in there, fill it with sand, and you can generally bend it at an angle, and pull out the spring and pick out the sand with a wire hook. In no case: the coating of the pipe deteriorates, the residual stresses in it are much higher than the permissible ones, and the metal-plastic pipe acquires the properties of a very poor rusted steel.

And finally, . This is a separate production cycle, and it is done after the commissioning of the water supply system. The pipes for the boiler are made in advance, but the valves on them (they are definitely needed on both) are blocked immediately after the pipes are installed, and the pipes are additionally muffled.

Video: an example of a mounted plumbing

Outcome

Now you know how to make plumbing with your own hands. We emphasize that this work is not their difficult or difficult, but it does not tolerate negligence and hack-work.

If replacement of water supply pipes in an apartment is required, most people invite a specialist.

Can you try to do it yourself?

What to change

The modern market can offer us:

• Black and galvanized steel pipes;
• Copper;
• metal-plastic;
• Polypropylene.

The comparative advantages and disadvantages of these materials have already been repeatedly mentioned, so we will only briefly go through the main points.

Steel pipes without anti-corrosion coating

pros

• Mechanical strength;
• Cheapness;
• Fittings availability.

Minuses

• Susceptibility to corrosion and overgrowth of the inner surface, especially in cold water;
• Great weight;
• Labor-intensive installation with welding or on.

Galvanized pipes

This pipe is afraid of rust only where deeply cut threads have exposed steel from under a layer of zinc. At the same time, the pipe has increased in price, and mounting it is still not easy work.

Tip: However, where special strength or high temperature resistance is needed at a low price, galvanized steel is the best choice.

In particular, it is an ideal material for entering a private house from a heating main.

Copper

pros

• This material, in the absence of catastrophes (a meteorite falling on the house, the third world war or a serious family quarrel), is practically eternal. The oldest copper plumbing is over a century old and in excellent condition.
• Working temperature. It is capped at 250 C from above. This means that the pipes will not only survive peak water temperatures; they will withstand superheated steam.
• Resistance to moisture and chemically active substances. The pipe will not rust or dissolve.

Minuses

• Price. It is the most expensive of all materials.
• Mounting on is tedious and requires a fair amount of physical strength; also needs a special tool.

metal-plastic

pros

• Easy assembly;
• Reasonable price for pipes and fittings;
• Neat appearance.

Minuses

Serious minus, in fact, one, but very significant: leaks on the fittings. After several tens of heating-cooling cycles, the connections begin to flow. Because of this, it is better to make them available for maintenance.

Polypropylene

pros

• Quick installation that does not require special skills;
• Extremely reliable and mechanically strong connections;
• Cheap material and fittings;
• Light weight is important both during transportation and when attaching water pipes to light partitions.

Minuses

• Unreinforced polypropylene elongates strongly when heated;
• Connections with fittings are non-separable;
• Special tool required for installation

Reinforced polypropylene is deprived of the first drawback - pipes in which one of the layers is aluminum foil or fiberglass. In addition, it withstands significantly more water pressure.

Comparison results

In the aggregate of all properties, reinforced polypropylene pipes are definitely the best choice. Ceteris paribus, it is better to stop at a pipe reinforced with fiberglass: it does not require stripping during installation and does not delaminate. But more on that later.

How to change

So, we settled on reinforced polypropylene. Replacing pipes in an apartment with your own hands, step by step, looks like this:

Dismantling the old plumbing

1. We turn off and reset the water supply risers;
2. We disassemble the threads or, which is simpler, we cut the old water pipe from the valves and further with a turbine;
3. Carefully, without much effort and distortion, unscrew the valve.

Tip: With older screw valves, it is often more convenient to first completely unscrew the head with the wing and stem.

In this case, you do not need to gouge a piece of the wall to unscrew the valve.

Be prepared, if necessary, to anneal the threads with a gas canister with a nozzle or a blowtorch; the valve, when you begin to unscrew the head, be sure to hold it with a second gas key.

Otherwise, there is a risk of breaking off the thread on the steel pipe coming from the riser.

Cleaning an old pipe

The pipe section up to the valve is almost always completely or partially clogged with slag and sand. In cold water, corrosion and salt deposits turn debris into hard growths inside the pipe.

Judging by the absence of deposits on top - galvanization. However, as you can see, it also needs to be cleaned

Cleaning the pipe before installing the valves is a mandatory operation. To do this, you can use a thin steel string (drapes were hung on such during the youth of Joseph Kobzon) or, if the riser is close, with an ordinary screwdriver.

If you have to wield a string, make a handle on one side of it like the one on the well gate, and on the other side, a hook the size of a match head. You will have to clean the problem areas, accompanying the supply of the string by turning the handle.

Valves and filters

The new valve sits on the old thread with a winding of sanitary flax soaked in paint.

Tip: in order not to get your hands dirty, wind one turn of linen, smear on opposite sides of the thread with a paint brush and then wind the rest of the winding.

Don't forget to lay down plastic or folded newspaper. Even one drop, let it fall on the floor.

Next, we install the filter, then the fitting-adapter from the thread to polypropylene.

It is advisable to place the filter so that the settling barrel is directed downwards. Otherwise, slag and scale will collect anywhere, but not in it.

Of the valves, it is better to stop at modern ball valves that block the water by turning the handle or flag by 90 degrees.

Installation of polypropylene

1. We select a soldering iron nozzle that matches the diameter of the pipe and fittings. By the way, for home plumbing, a diameter of 20 mm is optimal, which is at the same time the cheapest.
2. We remove the outer chamfer from the pipe.
3. We must clean the reinforced pipe with aluminum foil: even if the aluminum layer is glued between the layers of polypropylene, when aluminum comes into contact with water, the pipe may begin to delaminate after a short time. The fault is electrochemical processes in aluminum in the presence of an electrolyte and low currents.
4. We insert one side of the nozzle into the fitting, put the other on the pipe.
5. Let the plastic melt.
6. We insert the pipe into the fitting and hold for a few seconds.

Conclusion

And really easy, right? Do not forget: we turn it on, opening the valve only partially, after which we carefully inspect the plumbing, all threads and connections with mixers for leaks.

If you have been living in your apartment or house for a long time, you must have faced the problem of leaky pipes. When replacing the water supply riser in an apartment becomes an urgent problem, you should try to solve it as quickly as possible, because otherwise you may encounter a leak.

Theoretically, the consumer should not independently carry out such work if he uses the services of housing and communal services, but in reality everything is different. Therefore, it is better to do the replacement of pipes with your own hands.

Pipe selection

By visiting the market, you can find pipes from different materials, namely:

• polypropylene;
• become;
• copper;
• metal-plastic.

It is best to refuse steel and copper. This is due to the fact that copper, although quite strong and durable, is not suitable for plumbing, because the quality of the water in such pipes can become too low for drinking. As for steel products, they lose to modern polymer options in terms of price, performance and ease of installation.

There is another factor that makes steel pipes to be abandoned, which is expressed in the fact that it is almost impossible to install them yourself. The result of all this is that you have to choose between polypropylene and metal-plastic pipes. These options are great for self-installation.

Replacing a water supply riser in an apartment may involve the use of metal-plastic structures that are reliable and allow connection without the use of additional tools. Such pipes are quite flexible, but the cost of construction can be quite impressive. Connection points must be checked over time, as they are weak links in engineering communications.

It is better if the riser is mounted from pipes of the same type, this will reduce the risk of damage and leaks. If you want to save money, it is better to choose polypropylene pipes, however, to connect them, you need to master certain skills. You will have to use a special soldering unit. This method allows you to achieve a reliable and durable connection. If an error is made during installation, then the situation can be corrected by attaching a new section. Polypropylene pipes can be foil-coated. The last option is for hot water.

Where to start work

If the replacement of the riser is planned to be carried out in a multi-storey building, then work must begin with obtaining permission to dismantle the water supply. It can be taken from the housing maintenance service. Residents of the entrance should be warned that the risers are to be replaced. It is important to report the date and time the water supply is turned off.

Events are held on weekdays. The disconnection is carried out by a plumber, who is sent by the housing maintenance service at the agreed time. Do-it-yourself replacement of water supply risers in an apartment is best timed to coincide with the corresponding work throughout the entrance. This will reduce labor costs and reduce the cost of work. If it does not work out with the neighbors, then you will have to install steel pipes, which does not suit everyone, or mount adapters from metal to plastic by installing polypropylene.

Work order

Before you start replacing the water supply riser in the apartment, you need to draw up a diagram of the location of the new water supply. At the next stage, the water supply is turned off, the old pipes are dismantled, and then a new riser is assembled and installed. The water supply is connected to the general system, only after that you can proceed with the installation of accessories such as filters and taps.

Turning off the water supply is carried out by a utility service specialist. All plumbing is disconnected, and old communications are cut off from the riser and removed from the ceiling. Using a pipe cutter, it is necessary to cut the pipes in order to obtain segments of the desired length in accordance with the drawn up scheme. When cutting, it is important to consider the depth of the fitting. To the final value you need to add 1.5 cm at the ends. This suggests that the estimated length of the workpiece should be 3 cm longer.

Replacing a water supply riser in an apartment may involve the installation of polypropylene pipes, which are connected with a special soldering iron. To begin with, the master will have to select and screw a suitable nozzle to the device. It is heated up to 250 °C. The end of the pipe and the fitting are heated with a nozzle. The heat exposure should continue for 10 seconds.

The pipe is connected to the fitting, after which it remains to wait for cooling. After that, you can connect the riser to the water supply system and check for leaks at the junctions. to the wall is carried out with clips, while a corner is used for mounting the mixer.

Work instructions

The instruction for replacing the water supply riser in the apartment provides for the need to install shutoff valves at the entrance to the system. It's practical and convenient. If the design has a tap, it can be cut off to prevent water leakage. The new crane is installed closer to the riser. Replacement work must begin with an inspection of the pipe at the neighbors, where the joint will have to be made.

If the connection is planned to be made with a plastic pipe, then this should not cause difficulties. It is necessary to use a polypropylene solder sleeve for this. When it is necessary to make a joint with a steel pipe, it is necessary to cut a thread on it in order to attach an adapter. The structure is inspected for strength.

If the pipe is old or damaged, then it is better to use the services of a specialist who will weld the threads, otherwise you may experience cracks on the surface from the load. Experts recommend cutting or welding about 6 turns. You can also consider the option of connecting with a collet coupling.

Joint sealing

When a major overhaul is carried out to replace the water supply risers in the apartment, the work may involve the transition from metal to plastic. For this, an adapter with an internal thread is used. To seal the connection, you need to use flax or fum-tape. The coupling is screwed onto a steel pipe. Using a soldering iron, the plastic section is connected to the pipe and joined using an adapter. As soon as you overcome the overlap, you need to solder the tee, from which the wiring will go to the apartment.

Replacement of risers according to the law

If you are interested in the law on the replacement of water supply risers in an apartment, then you should know that, according to Article 161 of the Housing Code of the Russian Federation, all work is carried out by the management company, to which the residential building is assigned. But if the issue of replacing the plumbing inside the apartment is being decided, then the owner of the home will bear all the costs. This aspect is extremely important in controversial issues such as flooding neighbors.

If the eyeliner is out of order, then the owner is to blame, while if the flood was caused by the destruction of the riser, then the management company will deal with the troubleshooting. Replacing the water supply risers in the apartment by the management company should not be carried out. However, if its specialists refuse to change the risers of the house, referring to insufficient funds, then the issue must be resolved by filing a complaint with the housing inspectorate.

The cost of work in Saratov

If you do not plan to deal with the replacement of risers yourself, then you can use the services of specialists. With the use of polypropylene pipes, the diameter of which varies from ½ to 1¼, the work will cost from 2500 rubles. If you have just moved into a new apartment, and steel risers are installed there, then after two years of their operation there is a risk of their overgrowing. Experts advise to replace the water supply risers in the apartment; in Saratov, specialists offer their services at an affordable cost.

Finally

Such work may be necessary even if the apartment has a weak water pressure. As the flow rate decreases over time, you may notice that a thin trickle has begun to flow from the tap at all. This pressure will not be enough to start the washing machine. In this case, a decision should be made to replace the pipes.

Few people think about replacing water pipes in an apartment building until it gets hot: either a small “flood” will occur due to loss of tightness, or normal water circulation will simply become impossible due to the slagging of the system.

There are a lot of troubles that untimely failed pipes and their shutdown in an apartment building can deliver.

Considering that the majority of water communications in apartments and houses were installed at least 30-40 years ago, it is necessary to carefully monitor all elements of the water supply system: from water supply risers and pipes to meters and valves to turn them off.

Because any problem is easier to prevent than to deal with its consequences. This is especially true of risers in an apartment building, which, if they break or fail, will entail serious and very unpleasant consequences.

1 Varieties and properties of modern pipes

First you need to decide what to change the old plumbing. This is a very important point, since the water supply cannot be collected and turned off from anything. It used to be that people had no choice and they were simply forced to use exclusively steel or cast iron pipes.

Steel was the most accessible material, and therefore the most popular. Now the market provides us with a huge variety of products. You just need to choose the best option and make sure that you made the right choice.

To date, 4 main materials are most often used in the installation of risers and pipes for hot and cold water supply, we will briefly consider each of them.

1.1 Metal-plastic pipes

Pipes made of metal-plastic are made in the form of a multilayer structure, which consists of four balls: the inner one is cross-linked polyethylene, resistant to pressure. Next - an aluminum layer 0.4 mm thick, which performs a reinforcing function; the third ball is a layer of glue; the outer part of the pipe is wear-resistant plastic.

Metal-plastic products are known for their versatility. It's about their characteristics. Metal-plastic combines the properties of metal and plastic. Its outer layer does not react to corrosion at all and is very durable. It can be used for many decades.

The internal frame or reinforcing layer makes the pipe strong, ductile and very reliable. Thus, the developers managed to level the problem of plastic, which consists in its possible damage due to excessive pressure or thermal expansion.

• resistance to corrosion;
• ease of installation;
• large variability of fitting fasteners and their shutdown;
• the outer layer of the pipe is a dielectric.

• the need for constant maintenance - pipe tightening.

1.2 Polypropylene pipes

Pipes made of polypropylene are the most practical and utilitarian pipes that have the best cost, and at the same time excellent performance.

Polypropylene is considered the most famous and sought after polymer. Unlike polyvinyl chloride (PVC pipes) or polyethylene, it does not react so seriously to temperature changes. Especially when it comes to low rates. Polypropylene can cope with hot water, but the permissible regime must be observed.

Polypropylene pipes have a smooth surface, are very durable and practically do not deform. The thickness of their walls can reach up to 6-8 mm, and a layer of reinforcement is often arranged inside the walls. In most cases, fiberglass or aluminum sheets are used as a reinforcement layer.

Like all other polymers, polypropylene has a long safe service life and does not react at all to contact with water, use in adverse conditions, etc.

• high throughput;
• the simplest installation of pipes and their shutdown;
• maximum tightness of connections;
• resistance to mechanical damage;
• price.

• non-separable connections;
• limited temperature.

1.3

Copper pipes are a long-standing classic that has excellent characteristics and, at the same time, an unaffordable price for many. Copper has been used to assemble pipelines for a very long time. And there are still houses in which copper water supply systems have stood for hundreds of years.

Is this not an indicator of their quality? Copper is extremely durable. In this parameter, it surpasses even polymer products. It has a huge operating temperature range and good flexibility. In addition to technical characteristics, copper at least looks better.

One of the main disadvantages is its price. It is also worth noting that copper pipes are quite easy to deform. On the one hand, this is good, since they can be bent in any position. But on the other hand, it should be understood that reduced strength affects the entire safety of the site.

• the maximum period of operation of the system;
• unlimited temperature regime (ideal for both cold and hot water supply);
• aesthetic appeal;
• resistance to corrosion.

• price;
• complex installation;
• low mechanical strength.

1.4

Galvanized steel pipes used to be very popular. They have not lost it even now, since this material has a number of important advantages. Galvanized steel resists moisture better, has increased strength and reliability. She came to replace conventional steel products.

• maximum mechanical strength (great for mounting a water supply riser in an apartment);
• resistance to corrosion;
• good throughput (due to the galvanized coating, systems from such pipes are not afraid of the formation of deposits and plaque).

• relatively high cost;
• laborious installation.

2 Stages of work

Replacing the water supply in the apartment and turning it off is a process that requires responsible preparation. The approach to it from the position of "I'll sort it out along the way" is not acceptable, since such repairs often have to be redone within a month after the installation of a new water supply system.

In general, the work plan for replacing the water supply is as follows:

1. The choice of material from which new pipes will be made (we recommend copper or galvanized for hot water systems, plastic pipes for cold water).
2. Determination of the layout of the distribution of cold and hot water.
3. Creation of a water supply scheme for the house.
4. Calculation of the diameter of new pipes (depending on their material and scheme).
5. Preparing the necessary tools.

For dismantling risers, meters, and old pipes: grinder, crowbar, perforator, pliers, hammer, screwdriver, face mask.

To work with fittings, connecting or disconnecting it, you will need: a pipe cutter, or a grinder, a trimmer, sandpaper, a sharp knife, press tongs, a pipe calibrator, a wrench, a perforator, a welding machine or an electric soldering iron for plastic pipes.

1. Purchase of materials.
2. Assembly and installation of selection and accounting units (meters for cold and hot water supply) and their subsequent registration.
3. Dismantling the old water supply system in the house.
4. Installation of new pipes for cold and hot water supply.
5. Installation of plumbing fixtures.
6. Supply water and check the system for defects and tightness of connections.

The dismantling of the old water supply is carried out in the following sequence:

1. Turn off the cold or hot water supply in the house and dump the old water supply risers.
2. If the pipes are connected by fittings, we disassemble them, if by a welded seam, we cut them with a grinder. Removal of pipes begins in the area that follows the valves.
3. Next, remove the valve itself.

Almost always, the sections of the old pipe that need to be left are clogged from the inside with plaque and mechanical impurities. This is especially true for cold water pipes, where slag turns into hard growths.

Therefore, it is necessary to pre-clean the pipes in the house before installing valves on them and welding with new sections. This can be done with acid, or mechanically (with a string, for example).

After cleaning the pipes, the installation of new shut-off and control valves is carried out. Such devices are mainly installed on fitting connections, so this should not cause any difficulties, the main thing is to make sure that the coupling point is as tight as possible.

Replacing water meters should be done every 4-5 years, so if the resource of the device is almost exhausted, it should be replaced along with the pipes. It is best to entrust the installation of new meters in the house to an authorized representative of the housing department, since the new device must be sealed, entered into the register and filled out with its registration certificate.

However, the installation of meters in the house can be done by hand, as well as the installation of water risers, but before that you need to obtain permission from the housing department in order to avoid possible troubles.

The main difficulty in installing pipes lies in their welding, but since the most common material today is polypropylene, and its connection does not require complex welding, we can say that the installation of new pipes can be done by hand at home. Plastic pipes for cold and hot water supply are connected using a special electric soldering iron.

1. The first step is to remove the outer chamfer from the pipe and clean the part to be joined from bumps and burrs.
2. We put one side of the soldering iron nozzle on the fitting, insert the pipe into the other side.
3. Waiting for the plastic to melt.
4. We insert the pipe into the fitting and fix it motionlessly so that they are firmly connected.

You should start right away with the fact that the replacement of the water supply must be carried out completely. Some, due to financial difficulties, are trying to change individual sites. However, this is wrong, and if the decision to replace has already been made, then work will have to be done on the entire water supply system.

So, replacing the plumbing, regardless of the amount of work, requires some tools. In addition, you should carefully consider the choice of material for plumbing. Replacing water supply pipes can be done with pipes made of different materials. However, each has its own scope.

• In the case when the replacement of water pipes is hidden, it is best to use polypropylene pipes, which are reinforced with fiberglass;
• Today, metal-plastic pipes are very widespread, but the metal age is already over. However, the best at the moment of all pipes for hot water supply are polypropylene. They are better than metal-plastic ones in that the latter, with repeated repetition of the change in temperature regime, become unusable;
• As for the connections, they must be made by hand in accessible places, so that in the event of an accident they can be very easily reached and repaired;
• Replacement of water pipes in the apartment should be accompanied by the replacement of valves. You need to choose only those taps that have a ball mechanism;
• As for pipes, only those that are suitable for its characteristics should be used for plumbing. For example, the temperature of the incoming water in the apartment, the quality of this water, the availability of material resources;
• As already mentioned, for hot water supply, polypropylene products are the best option. They are able to withstand media temperatures up to 80 degrees, while being easy to operate and have an optimal price / quality ratio.

Advice! When choosing plastic pipes, special attention should be paid to their marking, since there is a type of product that is intended only for cold water supply systems.

• Replacing the water supply in the house with your own hands is often done because the old water supply system could not provide consumers with normal pressure. There can be many reasons for this. In order to ensure normal pressure even with very low pressure in the system, a device such as a booster pump is introduced into the new circuit;
• To purify water, it is necessary to install special filters. They can be part of the risers, or displayed separately. I must say that coarse filters are more suitable for risers, which will rid the water of sand, rust and similar impurities. As for thinner filters, they are placed directly under the tap.

In addition to all the listed materials, numerous rubber gaskets will be needed. And you may also need special fasteners for drains and horizontal pipes.

Preparing for the installation of a new plumbing

I must say right away that replacing the plumbing in a house or apartment with your own hands begins with the preparation of a plan.

To do this, a diagram is drawn in which all sizes of risers, all sizes of horizontally laid sections, and the number of connecting elements will be indicated. When specifying risers, it is necessary not to forget about the presence of a filter, if it is planned to install it, and so on.

Advice! When buying, you should not be guided by the figure that turned out during the calculations, but by 5% more.

Indeed, the replacement of water supply risers, as well as the replacement of other parts of the water supply, is always accompanied by some loss of material, so the stock must be mandatory.

When polypropylene pipes are purchased in the right quantity, it is necessary to purchase all additional elements, that is, fittings, couplings, adapters, taps, and so on.

Removing the old plumbing

It is clear that in order to install new water pipes, it is necessary to remove the old ones. If we are talking about a house with an autonomous water supply, then all the elements of the water supply can simply be removed separately.

If we are talking about an apartment building, then first you need to turn off the water.

Especially for this purpose, cranes are installed at the entrance, as a rule, in the design of risers.

They need to be completely covered. Naturally, both taps must be turned off both from the cold water supply system and from the hot one.

After shutting off, check the plumbing system for leaks. You just need to turn on the water. If at least from any tap water continues to drip, then it is necessary to call the plumbing team to change the valves.

In this case, the replacement must be carried out by them, since they have the right to turn off the water in the entire house or in its separate circuit in order to carry out the work.
After the replacement of the shut-off valves has been completed, you can begin to dismantle the old water supply.

It all starts with the dismantling of risers in the apartment. If there are several, then they are removed one by one.

In the case when the old pipeline was made of metal pipes, it is most convenient to install them using a grinder.

In those places where polypropylene pipes will be attached, metal pipes must be unscrewed.

This may require a torch and an adjustable wrench. When all the elements of the old water supply system are cut down, and the remains of the risers are unscrewed, the water pipes can be replaced.

Riser replacement

Installation of water supply risers in an apartment building begins with the fact that they are screwed into the old connector or screwed onto it. If we are talking about a private house, then the replacement of water supply risers is carried out along with the replacement of water supply parts that are outside.

Advice! When choosing pipes for risers, it is better to focus on the diameter of the old ones, since all the necessary holes in the walls or floor have already been made for them in the house.