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Roses from cold porcelain, how to make molds and other useful things for modeling

Roses from cold porcelain, how to make molds and other useful things for modeling

This publication is for those who are just starting to master cold porcelain modeling. Very beautiful roses belong to the author Tanyusha. Below you will learn how to make molds for sculpting leaves and find a small list of necessary tools for sculpting. I wish you all success in your creativity!

A METHOD for making molds that are not inferior to store-bought ones (because they are made in exactly the same way)! AUTHOR lolkaolga

Materials: glass bottle (hard plastic can be used), petroleum jelly, children's soft plasticine (you can put it on batteries and it will be softer), epoxy glue (90 rub.) (or epoxy resin with hardener in different bottles (sold in kilograms)).

We don’t need expensive transparent epoxy, which is used in jewelry and other gizmos, so I purchased, on the advice of our general well-wisher Svetlana (SVET1301), universal epoxy glue of the EDP brand, it is not expensive (90 rubles), and the amount of resin in one box is 4-5 Moldova is enough! Its only drawback is that it takes a long time to dry - because it is intended for gluing - but since we have a limited amount of hardener for the amount of resin, I had to wait a long time - complete drying probably takes a week + - another 3-4 days. The speed of hardening depends on the amount of hardener and air temperature (you don’t need to put it on the battery, otherwise the plasticine will melt and the print won’t work), you can also add alcohol-based dyes to give shades.

We roll out the plasticine into a cake on glass or thick oilcloth, grease it with Vaseline and push out the desired petal by rolling it with a bottle greased with Vaseline, make sure that everything is beautiful, the work is dirty, prepare yourself wet wipes for wiping your hands and bottles! Then we carefully make a border; I scraped it with a knife, moving it towards the print. We remove the petal very carefully so that there are no unnecessary indentations from nails and fingers.

We prepare the epoxy according to the instructions in an unnecessary plastic jar from food products, such as yogurt, with this plastic there will be no reaction of the epoxy, the resin can be heated on batteries for fluidity pain. We pour the finished composition into our form and wait - I waited 3-4 days! Do you see the fingerprint?, I checked it - if it’s sticky, we wait further!

We peel off the plasticine, I also had to wash the mold with a brush, then wipe it with a damp cloth and wipe it with alcohol - degrease it! Left is dirty - right is clean!

AUTHOR lolkaolga
Homemade mold.
Production: we glue transparent double-sided tape onto a thick film (we put a printout of a leaf with veins under the film) and glue the threads onto this tape in the right direction, the work is painstaking but the result is not bad, the threads can be taken of different thicknesses and then the texture will be more natural or something. Afterwards, you need to open this “mold” several times with varnish so that the tape stops sticking (I opened it 3 times).

Mold: plate, price from 25 rub.

Mold: plate, price from 25 rub.
Plates of different sizes and shapes with this texture.

Mold: cutting board, price from 50 rub.

Mold: bay leaf (soaked).

The mold is made of corrugated paper, the print is not deep, but the petals will be more realistic, the only thing is that the corrugation is a little painted, it is better to mold with white corrugation (if such a thing exists in nature, but if not, then it will match the color of the petals or light).

Homemade molds made of plaster and porcelain.

Miscellaneous things:
1 - Stack bamboo knitting needle (No. 4.5 length 20 cm)
2 - 2A - Bulks - smooth beads from necessary and unnecessary beads (for rolling out the edges of the petal)
3 - Stack handle (metal) (for forming the cores and rolling out the edges of the petal)
4 - Cosmetic sponge (you can roll out the edges on it and use it to press the HF to the mold so that there are no fingerprints)
5 - Stacks for modeling (I use them to hook the rolled out petals)
6 - 6A - toothpick and skewer (gives texture to the petal)
7 - 7A - manicure gadgets (for adding texture to petals and leaves, as well as for making foam molds)
8 - Disposable spoons (we dry the petals in them to give shape)
9 - Nail scissors (mode and cutting edges and not only...)

Curly scissors: a very good thing, makes it easier to cut the edges of leaves (their prices vary, from 45 rubles to 120 rubles)

Cutting knives - a knife (80 rub.) I chose for a long time and thought about how it would slide and cut in the right direction, but a pizza knife (70 rub.) is a good thing, but if the diameter is large, then it is not very convenient to work with small parts, but if A smaller diameter is more convenient, and a double knife (150 rubles) - wavy, also convenient for cutting out leaves + my purchase of a cutting mat (expensive 230 rubles. A4 size)

Homemade: my dad made me all sorts of buns from ball bearings - a treasure!

Paint for greenery: I bought it to color a water-based emulsion and experimented with painting a samovar HF - I really liked the color - it looks so natural and simply chic. The mass behaves in the same way as when painting with oil paints, it dries faster and the elasticity decreases, but not by much. In the left corner the leaf is already dry and the mass is fresh - as you can see, the color is practically the same!

Oil paint "Sonnet" - "Herbal greens" - 3 cm ball added 2 peas of paint. Oil paint "Gamma" - "Swamp dark" No. 528 - 3 cm ball added 2 peas of paint

Oil paint "Gamma" - "Glauconite green" No. 510 - 3 cm ball added 4 peas of paint

Syringe - it is needed for making thin, even sausages (roots for orchids, curls, for rolling stems, etc.)

Homemade cutters made from beer cans

Store-bought cookie cutters and more, they are much cheaper than professional cutters - although of course they are inferior to them

Foam balls - as a base for flowers!
I bought a large bag in a florist shop (size from 0.5 to 1 cm) - 80 rubles, and “Fantasy World” balls in craft stores - 52 rubles.

A set of cuttings for making flowers from marzipan and mastic - I bought this thing at the "Handicraft Formula" exhibition for 650 rubles. These cuttings suit us very well - one set for all occasions! ;) I advise you to go to the bakery stores, there are so many interesting things! and cheaper than florist cutters!

Tools for marzipan - cheap, up to 150 rubles. Everything for a baker is sold in stores.

So, first, we find suitable leaves. I chose a hydrangea leaf, a foxglove leaf, a virgin grape leaf, a regular grape leaf (I don't know the variety), and a rose leaf. I warmed up the plasticine a little in the microwave, rolled out the pancakes with a rolling pin (through parchment), made impressions, raised the sides, coated them with Vaseline-based massage cream with a brush. Next, I prepared the glue according to the instructions (I bought 120 ml of glue). But before mixing with the hardener, I put the jar of resin in warm water to liquefy it for a couple of minutes. I poured glue into the molds. The layer thickness must be at least 3 mm.

I left the molds with epoxy for 5-6 days. And now the hardest part is to remove the molds from the plasticine molds. Despite the Vaseline, the plasticine comes off reluctantly. At first I simply cleaned off the plasticine, then dipped it in hot water and used a dry cloth to remove the hot plasticine from the mold, then scraped the back of the mold with a knife, and then wiped the mold with alcohol. In short, a lot of fuss. But I'm happy with the result. In future works I will show the use of molds in practice.
Here they are ready! From left to right are hydrangea, grapes, virgin grapes and foxgloves. The dye from the plasticine migrated to the epoxy.

These are the molds ready to be poured. Below is a leaf of virgin grape and ordinary grape, on top is foxglove (left) and hydrangea.

And this is a mold of a leaf of a virgin grape that textures a leaf of a new rose :)) It turned out big, I really like it. At least I got leaf molds.

Material used from sites:

stranamasterov.ru/node/176771

Materials and tools:

Two syringes without a needle (sold at any pharmacy)
Container for mixing resin and hardener (plastic cup)
Stick for this mixing (wooden)
Ceramic tiles or cardboard (in general, any flat, hard surface, preferably on a flat table)
Scotch tape (wide, single-sided)
Accessories for jewelry (connectors, earrings, connecting rings, bases)
Mini drill (sold in almost any construction store, take the cheapest one, I personally use DREMEL 300)
A set of attachments for it (a small drill and an emery head for turning)
silicone molds for filling balls, which can be purchased at a craft store
Good mood for yourself. Well, gloves with a respirator would be nice

Progress

We fill the silicone mold with two-component epoxy resin to the middle.

Then we carefully place our rose in it, trying not to break it.

After this, fill the mold to the brim. That's it, nothing else depends on us. We are waiting 24 hours.

Take the ball out of the mold. Under warm water this process will become much easier. We cut off the ugly top of the ball at the place where the fastening will be.

If the ball itself has any bumps or scratches, you can polish it. To do this, you will need a separate mini-drill at low speeds and special polishing attachments.

When working with epoxy resin, it is very important what forms (molds) the master uses. Of course, you can buy them, but what to do in a situation where you need to get the form quickly, but there is no time to search and wait for delivery?

There is only one way out. Namely, make the mold with your own hands. Today's selection of lessons will help you learn how to make molds for pouring with your own hands.

Anyone who is seriously engaged in the manufacture of costume jewelry and women's jewelry also takes the search for the best tools, devices and materials very seriously. After all, quality is a guarantee of success.

And it often happens that too much time passes from the birth of an idea to the birth of a result. Or a completely interesting and original project ends up in a long box. And the only reason is that the necessary and ideally suitable materials and accessories cannot be obtained or they are too expensive.

In such a situation, one master will literally “dig the earth with his nose” in order to find a more or less adequate replacement for what is needed, and may even take on the task of making everything necessary himself. And this is correct, because “your” instrument, although it appears “in pain,” always turns out to be the most convenient.

It's not as difficult as it seems. The main thing is to understand what exactly needs to be done. For example, you can simply use the knowledge of those who have already gained experience in this matter.

A craftswoman under the nickname Lida Floral Beauty offers you a master class on making a mold for pouring epoxy resin. It can be used to produce spherical and hemispherical parts for jewelry.

For work you will need: special silicone for making molds (molds), a hardener for it, plastic cups and jars of the required sizes - clean and dry, glass beads of different diameters, moment-crystal glue. A description of the entire process can be found in the link below:

In addition to the photo master class, we offer you a selection of lessons in video format.

How to make molds with your own hands. Video master classes

How to make molds for epoxy resin:

DIY epoxy resin molds:

Do-it-yourself molds for epoxy resin at the lowest cost:

DIY silicone molds:

Silicone and starch molds for epoxy resin:

Discussion of the article

Hi all! I continue my series of master classes. This time it turned out to be an MK experiment, because... The end result of this event was not even known to me. And first, the background of this master class:

In addition to the line of jewelry made of plastic and beads, I have long been planning to launch a line of jewelry made of epoxy resin in a vintage style (soon, by the way, the ordered accessories will finally reach me from America, and even more beautiful and delicate things will appear in the store :-). And, of course, most of all I wanted to create jewelry with epoxy balls, and, as you know, molds are needed to make them. Where can I get them? A rather well-known store went on vacation... I thought and thought and decided to create molds myself.

Many attempts were made to find at least one MK on a given topic on both Russian and foreign portals, but alas, I did not find a single more or less successful master class, except, perhaps, one Chinese who made a mold of some kind of mouse ( however, looking ahead, he thereby gave me the idea of the necessary type of silicone). A lot of ordinary silicone sealant and corn starch were spent, but my attempts to make a mold from these materials were not crowned with success (by the way, I’ll let you know recipe for making leaf molds for ceramic floristry : silicone acid sealant + corn or potato starch, mix in a 1:1 ratio, first with a stick, then with your hands, you can knead until it stops sticking to them, make cakes half a centimeter thick, apply a leaf, gently smooth it, press it in and leave to dry for a day , in the end it turns out to be a good mold). After reading about various brands of silicone and looking at the Chinese :-), I came to the conclusion that I need a two-component silicone, which is prepared like an epoxy - the silicone part and the hardener are mixed. I found it on eBay from the English for 6 pounds 250 grams of weight and 25 grams of hardener + 5 pounds shipping. Here he is:

Instructions in English. But everything is more or less clear: we mix the silicone mass and the hardener in a ratio of 100:10, i.e. For 100 ml of mass we take 10 ml of hardener. For accurate measurements, we use measuring containers and syringes. IMPORTANT Do not overfill the amount of hardener, 100:10, period, if you pour in more, nothing will come of it, because... everything will begin to thicken quickly, bubbles and other troubles will appear. So, we combined two substances in pure and the main thing is DRY glass and begin to carefully, slowly stir until the mass becomes a soft pink color (salmon pink in their language), no white streaks of the mass should remain, knead especially carefully from the bottom and walls of the glass. Mixed it up, took another one DRY glass, poured the whole thing into it in a thin stream and mixed it carefully again: this way we will definitely achieve uniform mixing of the components and reduce the number of bubbles. Something like that:

Next, take small cups (you can cut them from yoghurt containers, the main thing is that they bend at least a little), drop a tiny drop of instant “crystal” type glue onto the bottom and put balls there (I bought a set of these glass balls in the store " fixed price" for 37 rubles and chose the smoothest and prettiest ones). After about five minutes the glue will set and the balls will not run away from their place:

Let's start filling. In just a tiny stream, holding your hand suspended on top of the cups (and I also managed to take a photo at the same time ;-)), we begin to pour our silicone directly onto the ball (the instructions say that if you pour it this way, then it will reduces the number of bubbles as they burst):

This whole filling procedure IMPORTANT to complete within 40-50 minutes, because then the hardening reaction begins, and the silicone begins to thicken, which means it will not flow in a beautiful thin stream. However, this time is quite enough to perform these simple procedures. Additionally, I filled a small plate with a layer about 1 cm thick and set it aside to set. So, we poured it in, waited about five minutes, lightly tapped our containers with their bottoms on the table so that the remaining bubbles rose to the surface and pierced them with a needle, and so on 2-3 times (not forgetting about the bowl without balls):

We pierced the bubbles, put our cups in one container for convenience (mine was from under sushi) and for now we can figure out the location of the balls for our plate:

About an hour, ten to twenty minutes have passed since pouring, and the silicone in the plate has already begun to harden and thicken - it’s time to load the balls. We immerse the balls by slightly pressing them so that they enter about halfway into the silicone mass, but do not touch the bottom:

That's it, work is finished for today. We close our box with containers with a lid, but not tightly, so that evaporation during the reaction escapes, and put it in a far corner to dry for 20-24 hours, depending on the ambient temperature. The room must be ventilated. I placed it on the top drawers in the kitchen, not far from the open window.

20 hours have passed. Excitedly we take out our containers and see what we have come up with. We take out the balls from the internal space of our molds. They move away from the walls perfectly:

We make holes of the required diameter from 5 to 8-9 mm for inserting fillers using nail scissors. Here's what we got:

The shape with hemispheres bends in all directions and easily takes its previous shape:

It seems everything worked out! It's time for testing. The instructions say that for some reason molds together with epoxy resin can be used only a week after their manufacture, while with gypsum fillers at least on the first day. Naturally, I couldn’t resist and filled the molds with jewelry resin a day after making them.

And here is the result. I would like to note that the resin, after hardening, separates from these forms simply perfectly.

That’s probably all I wanted to tell and show you today. I hope this master class-experiment is useful to you. After all, there are no discoveries without experiments! Do not forget about safety precautions when working: wear gloves, work and dry molds and products in a ventilated area, store all chemical liquids out of the reach of children.

Thank you for your attention. Always your Lida Floral Beauty:-)

SILICONE BRAND: Moldcraft GP-3481-F RTV Silicone Moldmaking. Type it into the search bar and several options should appear. Mine was from England, from the seller quantumsupplies1. He also has other types of silicone on sale, they apparently differ in hardness, and there is even silicone for making food molds - for chocolate, marzipan, ice, etc. !

Previously, we published a master class and general tutorials; in this material we will tell you how to make chic ball earrings or a brooch using this technique. In fact, everything is much simpler than it seems.