Building materials

How to remove the rear cassette on a bike. Selection and repair of bicycle cassettes. Required tools for removing cassette

Bicycle cassette - rear sprocket system for changing the gear ratio. The stars are located in descending order from the hub - the closest to it is a large and "powerful", the farthest is a high-speed small sprocket. The countdown is carried out in the same order. To increase the gear means to shift to a more distant star, and vice versa.

Cassette - consumable, wears out over time, which requires its periodic maintenance - replacement of the chain, individual stars or the node as a whole. The cassette also means a ratchet - at first glance, a similar set of rear sprockets. In fact, this is far from the case, and right now we will learn about the differences so that we will never again get confused in these concepts.

What is the difference between a ratchet and a cassette

Ratchet is a ratchet mechanism with a threaded or slotted mounting on the sleeve. The ratchet is outside and the sprockets are completely installed. This means that the ratchet is put “on time” - when, say, small sprockets are worn out, it will not work to replace only the worn part - everything changes at once.

This type of node was widespread in the last century, and now it can be found on the budget. Some of the disadvantages of the ratchet include:

a small number of stars - from 5 to 7 speeds;
low running resource;
for more hardy products, the cost will be many times higher.

Although, of course, repair, or rather, non-maintainability, is the main drawback. Most ratchets are threaded. An unpleasant feature of this mount is jamming. It looks like this: after a certain mileage, it will twist on the bushing so that it will be problematic to disassemble it later.

Ratchets and cassettes differ in both mounting and pullers

Now about the cassettes. In fact, this is the same ratchet, only the ratchet is hidden inside the drum. It is installed only on splines, which is why it is sometimes problematic to switch from the ratchet (if that rare spline copy was not standing). In comparison with its "brothers", the cassette drum mechanism has a number of advantages:

more stars - from 9 to 11 on modern models;
the system weighs less, which means the bike as a whole, too;
rolling resistance is noticeably less than that of a ratchet;
the cassette is easier to remove;
more mileage;
you can change the asterisks individually.

The last plus, of course, is the most significant, and we will emphasize it once again: changing the system completely or only one or two stars is a huge difference! Well, there is only one drawback - the initial cost is higher. However, this again negates the very advantage - the ability to repair, and not buy a new one. Should you opt for a cassette tape? Definitely yes!

What types are cassettes divided into

It is very interesting to know how the stars are fastened on the drum and to each other. The modern bike cassette is available in several versions. Each of them is good in its own way. Meet:

spacer,
spiders,
solid milled,
block.

Spacer cassettes are sprockets fastened with separate splines to the drum. For separation, plastic spacers are inserted between them. Parts have a strictly specified thickness so that the distances in the cassette between its elements are kept constant. The advantage of such a system is that they can be disassembled "to zero." The disadvantage, however, for aluminum drums is the high torsional load, because from each star the force is transferred to the drum. On stronger steel counterparts, this problem is not observed.
In a spider-type connection, all the stars are put on a single spline. Legs are made in the form of ladders for each asterisk. Power loads are reduced, so this type of cassette should be chosen for aluminum drums. Also, compared to spacers, these systems are lighter.

On a spider, you can also change only one asterisk.

On solid milled cassettes, the entire unit is made as one piece. It is attached to the lower star, which is the slot for the drum. Among the analogues, this is the most expensive option:

the simplest device due to the absence of additional connections;
ease;
high strength;
durability.

Solid Milled Transmission Cell

What about the disadvantages? Firstly, the price will pay off only for an expensive mountain bike. And secondly, the design is very much like a ratchet. And although durability and strength were declared, no one canceled partial wear. And it is impossible to change one or two stars.

The blocky model is represented by several spiders with two or three stars on each. Small stars are inserted into the spline of the drum by themselves. Since they are more likely to wear out with bike use, they can be changed separately altogether. Other components on the blocks are exchanged in pairs at once.

Disassembled Shimano Block Cassette

We remove with or without a tool

Removing the cassette from the bike is not difficult if you use special tools - a 12-hook puller, a wrench and a whip. The puller is a small wrench with a spline connection for the drum.

Disassembly looks like this:
1. The key is inserted into the cassette as shown in the picture. Make sure the splines are tightly engaged.

2. We select a wrench, put a whip on the chain.

3. While holding the largest sprocket with the whip, pull the puller nut counterclockwise.

4. It will take a lot of force to loosen the spline of the rear cassette, and exactly the same when tightening the bolt. We remove carefully, holding the system by the upper (small star) and lower (large star) ends.

5. After the system is removed, proceed to the inspection of the sprockets. With the block system, where the small components are installed separately, together with the washers, carefully remove them from the drum.

6. The cassette can also be removed without a whip: for this we take an open circuit, put it on a large star and fix it on something motionless, for example, on the bars of a fence. When removing, pull the wheel to the side and at the same time unscrew the puller nut.

Is it possible to remove the cassette without using a removable tool? In principle, yes, but here you need a hollow slotted tube and an appropriately sized spanner. Still, buying a regular puller is easier.

Installing a cassette looks exactly the opposite of removing:

Slide the housing onto the hub ratchet.
Carefully hook the sprockets onto the spline (for block models).
It is important to attach the rings correctly - they are tightly fixed on two neighboring stars with the help of small columns. Each must fit into the corresponding hole in the stars for a snug fit.
When all the components are put on, carefully, with a gradual increase in efforts, we tighten the cassette onto the sleeve. It is better to pull the puller nut down all the time, tossing the key. The recommended force range is 21.7 - 36.2 Nm.

We clean and lubricate the cassette

Timely service includes not only repairing the unit and replacing worn out parts, but also keeping it clean. In operation, the mechanisms sometimes wear out not so much from the applied loads, but from careless maintenance - the dirt adhering to the lubricant spoils the operation of the system and grinds down the teeth faster. Before servicing the cassette, it is necessary to remove it - see the analysis and its correct sequence above.

Cleaning is done with a special flat brush:

Long and hard villi are able to crawl to the very axis and clean out dirt from the most problematic places.

If you plan to partially replace, and at the same time clean the cassette, you can use a regular shoe brush, because cleaning the stars individually is much easier than assembled. Beforehand, you can apply a little mild detergent - trialon or dishwashing liquid to the brush. After all the dirt has been washed off, we wipe the surfaces of the stars with a soft cloth to dryness.

The next step is to lubricate the sprockets. At the same time it is and, otherwise the procedure will not make sense - the dirt will again settle from the chain on the teeth. It is recommended to use special dust-repellent compounds for lubrication. Processing is done along the entire height of the teeth and in the spaces between them. Do not overdo it with lubrication, a thin layer is enough.

Conclusion

A bicycle cassette is a simple and unpretentious assembly, which, however, will require periodic disassembly and maintenance. Cleaning, lubrication, timely replacement of worn parts is the best protection, guarantee of long-term operation and prevention of unexpected breakdowns in the transmission.

So you've decided to remove the cassette. There can be a lot of reasons for removing the cassette; it is necessary for replacement, for service or for cleaning. Or maybe you want to disassemble the bushing and check how the drum, pawls and bearings are doing. In any case, for all these operations you will have to remove the cassette and the first thing you need is to acquire a suitable tool.

Puller

The stripper itself may look different. It can be either a separate head or a whole wrench, with or without a pin for centering (we recommend taking without a pin, since such a puller is compatible with a large number of bushings). The essence is simple everywhere, there are grooves on the cassette lock nut, and there are slots on the puller that fit these grooves. By the way, if you have brake rotors with mounting type CenterLock from Shimano then this puller will work with them too. It looks something like this:

Whip key

You will need such a wrench to secure the cassette and unscrew the locking nut. Without it, the cassette will simply scroll and you will not succeed. It looks like this:

If you do not have the key, but there is an old, unused chain, but you can use it. We take the chain, make a couple of turns around any open-end wrench or suitable stick and VOIL, your key is ready.

We remove the cassette

First, you need to remove the wheel from the bike. Use wrenches or hexagons, we think you can handle this without any problems. The next step is to place the wheel in front of you so that you can see the cassette lock nut in front of your face.

You see the inscription “ LOCK> 40N *m"? Here she is what we need! The arrow shows the direction of tightening the lock nut, clockwise. We need to unscrew it counterclockwise. It may take a lot of effort to get it off the ground, but don't worry, it's okay. All because of the small splines on the smallest sprocket and lock nut. They are there so that the nut does not accidentally unscrew while riding. There may also be a thin washer between the nut and the sprocket, do not lose it when you remove it.

Sequencing:

Insert the stripper into the cassette.

Wrap your key whip clockwise around the star. If you are using the old chain option, step on the wrench / tube that you wrapped the chain around earlier. You will end up with something like this:

While holding the whip, turn the puller counterclockwise.

The cassette is put in the reverse order. Do not forget that there are splines on the hub drum and cassette stars that need to be mated. The easiest way to do this is using the largest spline as a guide.

If you have any questions, then feel free to ask them in the comments. Happy renovation!

I believe that any self-respecting bike enthusiast should be able to fix minor problems, adjust switches, pump hydraulic brakes, edit eights and much more.

I will definitely write articles on all these topics, but first I would like to tell you what tools it makes sense to purchase for those of my readers who decide to service the bike on their own.

Looking at this question from the height of experience, I understand that it would be correct to immediately buy a complete set of tools for a bicycle, and not buy one at a time, as the need arises. I wrote a note about, read it.

However, the approach of collecting the instrument one by one also has the right to life, so - see what you need.

Basic bike tools

1. A set of hexagons. Most importantly, do not buy any Chinese plasticine slag in hardware stores for a penny price. Only a dedicated bike kit - compact and made of strong steel, for example Crank brothers .

2. Spoke wrench. Everything is clear here - eights appear on the wheels, they need to be edited. If the rim is soft, and your weight is within a centner, then you are tortured to run to the mechanic. And there was business for three minutes.

3. Cassette remover, whip and adjustable wrench. You will need this kit when the time comes to change the cassette - for such a small operation it is not serious to go to the workshop. In principle, at one time I did without a whip, winding an old towel around the cassette, but this is inconvenient and not aesthetically pleasing. 🙂 If you have an old system, 7 speeds or less, then your cassette is on the ratchet, and another puller is needed there.

4. Squeeze. A practical thing, it is needed even if you use chains with a lock, for example, when the chain breaks or you need to shorten it.

5. Mounting blades. Of course, you can do without them, but the rubber is not always disassembled with bare hands, and if you use improvised items, you risk tearing the camera.

6. Repair kit for cameras. Even if you have a spare camera, don't think that it can't be punctured either. Patches will save the day in this case.

With this kit, the cyclist can do basic maintenance, tune gears and rule eights.

Basic bike tool kit

1. Key for pedals. It is best to buy a special wrench, it has a very thin section and fits into the narrowest gaps between the connecting rod and the pedal. But in most cases, you can get by with the usual 15 key.

2. Kit for removing the system and carriage. There is a huge range of very different standards. Until recently, the main type of bottom bracket on inexpensive bicycles was the "square", which requires a crank wrench and a slotted wrench to remove it.

Now the most popular system is Hollowtech, to remove it you only need a key for the carriage cups. However, on budget bikes, the good old "square" is still installed, so before buying a tool, find out what your standard is.

3. Wire rope cutters. Than just beginner cyclists do not cut the cables, but correctly - with special pliers, then the end of the cable does not fluff, which in turn needs to be pressed into the aluminum tip.

4. Hammer with rubber bump. A very useful thing in the household, sometimes you need to apply, but so as not to damage anything. It is also convenient to use light blows with such a hammer to knock out the position of the front derailleur in order to set its ideal position.

5. Cone wrenches. These wrenches are needed when it comes time to clean and adjust loose bearing bushings. However, modern mid-range bikes already often use bushings with industrial cartridge bearings, often requiring no disassembly tools. Therefore, before buying such keys, check with the seller what kind of bushings you have on your bike.

6. A set of Torx keys. This standard is sometimes applied in bicycle construction along with hex bolts. It doesn't hurt to have a Torx kit in all major sizes.

7. Set for bleeding hydraulic brakes. I will cover this topic in more detail in a separate article. For now, I will only say that there are special kits, for example, Avid produces such. However, they can be used independently from a disposable syringe, but a ready-made tool is more convenient.

With such a set of tools, you can solve almost all the problems associated with self-repairing a bicycle. The mechanics will only have to be contacted for special work, such as trimming the frame or servicing the shock absorbers.

Special set for advanced cyclists

1. Rack for bike repair. Extremely comfortable design that allows you not to bend over the bike, but to practice it in a natural position.

2. Stand for aligning eights. You can adjust the wheels directly in the frame, but with a special stand it is much more convenient, more accurate and faster to do it.

3. Strain gauge. A device for measuring the uniformity of the spoke tension. An irreplaceable item for those who assemble wheels on their own. However, I also recommend it to those who simply monitor the condition of the spokes, especially if your weight is close to a hundred kg.

4. . A great thing for those who ride in three chains. You can monitor the stretching of the chains by timely changing them in a circle. This extends the life of the system sprockets, cassette and chains.

5. Magnetic cup. A convenient thing so that all the bolts, chain locks and other small things do not creep around the apartment.

What am I missing, dear readers? If you find a significant item, write in the comments, I will add.

Listing these tools does not mean that you have to run to the store and buy everything from the list. No, buy what you need at the moment and look a little into the future - what else you may need.

I just wanted to show that not so many accessories are needed to fully repair a bicycle at home. An enthusiastic person will quickly accumulate the kit he needs and forget the road to bike mechanics. I will try to give more information on how to maintain and repair the bike myself.

Friends, let's not get lost on the Internet! I invite you to receive email notifications about the publication of my new articles, so you will always know that I have written something new, please.

Ratchet and secured with a snap ring. Special slots on the sleeve housing allow the cassette to be installed in the correct position.

Tools needed to remove the cassette

Whip key - is a key with a bicycle chain attached;

1. Remove the bike wheel, then install the puller so that the splines fit fully into the grooves of the circlip.

2. Place the whip on the sprocket so that the links of its chain sit tightly on its teeth. The whip handle should be to the right of the cassette and the chain on top.

3. Put the adjustable wrench on the cassette remover and turn it counterclockwise, while holding the handle of the whip without letting the stars turn.

If the chain slips off, it is possible that the cassette stars are badly worn, or the whip is faulty. In this case, try to throw it over a large star.

4. Unscrew the retaining ring to the end, then remove and unfold the stars and spacers. Lay out everything in order so that nothing is confused during assembly.

Cassette removed, now it can be cleaned or changed.

When installing the cassette, the main thing is not to mix up the order of installing the parts. In order to correctly install the sprockets, they have grooves with different widths, and on the bushing there are the same splines, thanks to them the teeth will fit in the right order.

1. Some cyclists advise to lubricate the hub surface before installing the cassette, but I think this will be superfluous. First, the chance of corrosion is too low. Second, the friction between the hub and the sprocket is also not high enough to cause damage. Thirdly, dust and sand can adhere to the lubricant, which can lead to accelerated wear of parts.

Apply grease only to the thread of the retaining ring, then it will be easier to unscrew it next time.

2. Put on the sprockets in turn, but do not forget about the spacer rings. In some cassettes, all or several stars can be connected into one non-collapsible unit - "spider". But more often than not, all the asterisks go separately.

3. In some cassettes, to install the last asterisk, you must press it. Check again that everything is installed correctly, with one hand press on the last sprocket, and with the other hand screw on the retaining ring.

4. Tighten the ring as far as it will go, but do not tighten yet. Check again to make sure that all the stars are parallel to each other and even. If something confuses you, disassemble the cassette and fix the problem.

5. If you are confident that everything is assembled correctly, then take the cassette remover and tighten the retaining ring clockwise to the end.

Everything, the cassette is assembled. Once again inspect the correct assembly and you can put the wheel in place.

A bicycle is a rather complex mechanism that requires proper care, maintenance and timely repair. Every self-respecting bike enthusiast simply must be able to perform at least basic repair work with a bicycle. Of course, the easiest way is to turn to specialists - bicycle mechanics, but the ability to independently maintain, adjust and repair your bike will not only save your wallet, but most likely will give you pleasure. In addition, basic knowledge in the field of bicycle repair will definitely come in handy on the way, when there is no one to turn to, but you have to go further.

This article is devoted to the tools that will be needed to repair a bicycle with your own hands. One screwdriver and a family wrench are not enough to disassemble the components of modern bicycles (especially sports and mountain bicycles). The bike enthusiast's arsenal should contain not only standard keys from the home toolbox, but also a variety of special keys and pullers. Which ones we will describe below.

Bicycle Repair Keys

There are some pretty standard bike tools - the keys every cyclist needs:

Hexagon set- Perhaps the most commonly used bicycle tool is a set of internal hex keys. It is necessary, for example, for removing many attachments, adjusting the brakes and bicycle speeds. Since hexagons are used very often, you shouldn't skimp on buying this tool. Cheap hexagons wear out very quickly. It is desirable that the set is compact and multifunctional so that you can take it with you. It will also not be bad if the set includes screwdrivers (flat and cross).

Spoke key - a key for tightening the bicycle spokes. Such a key can be useful even on the road, and at home it simply cannot be replaced. With the help of a spoke wrench, you can change the tension of the spokes, thereby correcting the figure eight of the bicycle wheel rim.

- since open-end wrenches are rarely used when repairing a bicycle, it is better to get an adjustable wrench. Also, such a key is useful for working with special pullers.

Pedal wrench- in most cases, you can get by with a conventional open-end wrench 15 to disconnect the pedal from the connecting rod. But it would be better to have a special pedal key. The plane of such a key is much smaller, and the gaps between the pedal and the connecting rod are very narrow.

Cone wrenches - are required for servicing the bushings of a bicycle with ball bearings. If you are going to clean and lubricate such bushings, then you cannot do without cone wrenches. If the sleeves are with industrial bearings, then special keys are not needed. Needless to say, before buying such keys, you need to make sure that the bushings of your bike are ball bearing.

Torx wrench set - sometimes Torx standards are used instead of hex bolts. That is why it will not be superfluous to have such a kit in service.

- or just a family. Everyone remembers this key, but few people use it now. And all because it is almost useless for repairing modern bicycles. But on the other hand, if you are going to repair Minsk, Aist, Kama or some other Soviet bicycle, then it will do quite well.

Pullers

To remove or disassemble some units and parts, ordinary keys are not enough, and special pullers are needed. Many novice cyclists do not know which keys (pullers) are needed to remove, for example, a ratchet or disassemble the bicycle bottom bracket. Let's try to clarify this point and talk about the most popular pullers.

Connecting rod puller - a wrench for removing the connecting rods on the bike. Now there are a lot of carriages (link) with different connecting rod mounting standards. On inexpensive bicycles, the “square” standard is always used. To remove such connecting rods, it is advisable to have a special puller. With the same puller, you can then tighten the nut or bolt of the connecting rod.

On bicycles of the middle and high price category, different spline standards for attaching the connecting rod to the carriage are applied. The most popular of these is Hollowtech. To remove the connecting rod of this standard, no pullers are needed, a wrench is enough to remove the carriage cups.

Carriage puller - a key for removing and disassembling the bicycle carriage. In order to disassemble the carriage, it is necessary to remove the cups, and this requires a special puller. The carriage puller is a slotted head. The standards, as well as the connecting rods, may be different, and therefore the pullers will be with different splines.

Ratchet puller- a wrench for removing the bike ratchet. Unscrewing the hand ratchet from the rim is simply not feasible due to the built-in freewheel mechanism. To remove the ratchet, you need a special puller, it looks like a slotted head.

Cassette remover - in order to remove the cassette, you need two tools - a puller and a whip. The whip tool is optional but desirable.

We've covered DIY bike repair wrenches and pullers, but that's not all. There are also tools, some are simply necessary, and you can do without some, but they are very convenient.

Chain squeezing - a special tool with which it is easy and simple to disconnect and connect the chain without a lock. But even if the chain with a lock, it will definitely come in handy for repairing the chain or shortening it.

Tire changers - a handy tool for beading tires. Usually, the tire cannot be removed without a tool and many people use whatever comes handy (screwdrivers or keys), but this increases the risk of damaging the camera. Mounting blades will be especially indispensable on the way.

Repair kit is a first aid kit for a bicycle camera. The set includes a certain number of patches and special glue. Although cameras are not expensive, you can still save a lot by gluing punctured cameras. And if you go on a long bike trip, it is not a fact that the spare camera will not be punctured.

Nippers - preferably bicycle cutters for biting the shirt of the cables and the cables themselves. If you cut the shirt and the cable with special pliers, then their edges will not fluff.

Hydraulic bleeding kit- such a set is indispensable for bleeding hydraulic brake systems. But it is not completely irreplaceable, some craftsmen make it themselves.

Repair stand- a special rack for convenient maintenance, tuning and repair of the bike. It is especially convenient to adjust the derailleurs of your bike using this stand.

Stand for editing eights- this stand increases the speed and quality of straightening the figure eight on a bicycle wheel.

Strain gauge - quite a useful tool that allows you to measure the tension of the spokes. If you independently rule eights and assemble bicycle wheels, then a tensometer will be a must.

Gauge is a tool for measuring chain wear. In order to ensure the durability of the bicycle sprocket, it is necessary to monitor the wear of the chain for its timely replacement.

As you can see, in order to maintain your bike yourself, you need not so many tools. If you are a beginner in the bicycle business and have not yet had time to acquire the tools necessary for repairing a bicycle with your own hands, then we advise you to bribe it as needed, and only if you are sure of the correct choice.

If you have something to add, you can write about it in the comments block below. Your opinion is very important!

This list is not a list of tools that you need to carry with you, especially if the bike is used for riding around the yard. And not a description of the arsenal of a bicycle repair shop.

Rather, it is something that is desirable to have to carry out most of the repair and adjustment work in the field, home or garage.

When buying, pay attention to the quality of the tools! It is difficult to unscrew a stubborn screw with a cheap, low-quality screwdriver, but it is very easy to rip off the slot! It's better to pay more for a normal set of wrenches and screwdrivers than to drill out the broken screw with a drill.

1. Screwdrivers, hex keys, ring, open-end, adjustable wrenches.

In a modern bicycle, there are many screws and nuts for an internal hexagon, so you should always carry a couple of small screwdrivers (flat and Phillips) and a set of keys with you.

They are sold in hardware stores, as well as in auto parts stores. There are key sets specifically for the bike, in the form of a pocket knife. They can contain a variety of useful attachments such as tire mounts. If you are buying your first bike, it makes sense to buy such a set right away. Bicycle Allen Sets usually have the largest size 8 wrench, and this is enough for almost all occasions (at least in the field).

But some bicycles may require a size 10 Allen key, so a car key set at home or in your garage won't be superfluous anyway. And it is more convenient to work in stationary conditions with car keys, since they have longer handles.

At home, it's also a good idea to have open-end or spanner wrench sets up to 16mm in size, and if your bike does not have quick-release clamps, then you should carry several of these keys of a suitable size with you, or use a family type key. (Using the family key at home is inconvenient - it is short and cuts into your hands). An adjustable wrench is needed less often, but it doesn't hurt to have one either. If you can remove the wheels on your bike without the use of tools, then you do not need to carry it with you. But at home it is highly recommended to have a large adjustable wrench (32 or 40 mm). In a modern bicycle, many parts are made of aluminum alloys, which have the unpleasant property of sticking tightly. In cases where neither kerosene nor swearing does not help, a large key (along with a sufficiently powerful vice) may come in handy.

If the bike has disc brakes, then you must also have PHILIPS keys.

2. Pry bars (for tires).

If you can remove the tire from the rim with your hands, then you can do without them. If the tires are tight, and the fingers are far from the pliers in terms of compression force, then you should always carry a couple of mounts with you - it is not recommended to pick the tires with screwdrivers. A car bike mount doesn't fit well.

Bicycle keys often include plastic pry bars, which are easy to carry around. And at home you can have such metal mounts - three of them are better.

3. Spoke wrench

Eights are the most common rim disease. Even the best rim with very careful riding will still have an eight after a while. If it is not strong, then you can be patient, but with the Big Eight (for example, after falls) it is not always possible to ride. Especially on bikes with V-BRAKE brakes - they are very critical of eights.

Therefore, the key for the knitting needles should also be constantly carried with you. A similar key for domestic bicycles does not fit well - it only damages the spoke nipples.

4. Camera repair kit

This kit includes patches, glue, and a skin. It is highly recommended to carry it with you.

5. Squeeze for the chain

On many bicycles, the chain is made one-piece, and to remove / replace it, you need a special tool - a squeeze. It allows you to disconnect and connect the chain links.

If your bike has a split chain, then a squeeze is not needed.

You should have this tool at home and do not need to carry it with you (except on long journeys).

6. Wrench for bushings

You must have two such keys. They are designed for disassembly, assembly and adjustment of wheel hub bearings. It is not possible to replace such a wrench with an ordinary open-end wrench - the open-end wrench is thicker.

As a last resort, you can use the family key.

7. Connecting rod puller

Most modern sports bicycles have a square bogie axle, and the cranks fit onto the axle and are attracted by nuts or screws. No special tools are required to install the connecting rods other than a wrench. To remove the connecting rod, you must use a special tool - a puller.

On some types of carriages (OCTALINK standard) the axle is hollow and has a circular cross-section (In nature, there is a third standard of connecting rods and carriages called ISIS. It is similar to OCTALINK, but incompatible with it. It needs its own puller).

8. Tool for carriage maintenance

On many modern sports bicycles, the carriage assembly is non-separable and maintenance-free. To install and remove it, you need a special slotted wrench.

Sometimes, instead of a slotted wrench for the carriage assembly, you need to use a wrench of this shape.

And this may be required. It can be replaced with a regular 36 mm open-end wrench, or, as a last resort, an adjustable / gas wrench can be used. The gas wrench must be used carefully - you can easily damage the frame.

If the carriage assembly is collapsible, then it must be adjusted and disassembled using such a key. Although, as a last resort, you can get by with the family key.

9. Tool for servicing cassette and ratchet

The need to remove the cassette arises quite often. For example, when adjusting the rear wheel hub, or when replacing a spoke from the cassette side. To remove and install the cassette, you need such a puller. Which puller to buy depends on what type of rear hub is used on your bike. For a hub with a screwed-on ratchet, use the one in the photo on the left. For bushings, SHIMANO is one of the others. If the hub axle is hollow, then it is better to purchase the one on the right (with a guide axle)

When removing the cassette, there is a problem of holding it, because you have to unscrew the cassette in the direction of free rotation of the rear wheel. Such a whip is used to hold the cassette. You can make it yourself from a bicycle chain. As a last resort, you can use a car oil filter remover.

10. Wire cutters

Wire cutters are needed when replacing brake cables and derailleurs. The same nippers can press the tip onto the cable.

With ordinary pliers it is impossible to neatly bite the cable - it flattens and then begins to unravel. If there are no pliers, you can carefully cut off the extra piece of cable with a grinder, and press the tip onto the cable with pliers. You can get out of the situation and with the help of a sufficiently powerful soldering iron, simply tin the end of the cable. Steel cables can be tinned quite well with acid, but I have not tried to tin cables in a Teflon sheath.

When for the first time my cassette was "sharpened" and the teeth began to resemble thorns - I took care of changing the sprockets behind the rear wheel. He took off the wheel, looked at the cassette, did not understand what and where to stick it and how to turn it. But the experience of other people helped me.

Shimano Bicycle Cassette Puller

In general, in order to remove the cassette you need 2 tools (or three). If you take "firmU" from Shimano - then each of these two keys will cost you 25 dollars. The first is actually a piece of chain attached to a metal handle. We pay money exclusively for the brand and "Made in Japan"

Bicycle cassette removal key

The second is also a branded key with a handle, which is inserted into the cassette nut. Convenient in that you do not need additional tools to turn the key. The issue price is also about $ 25.

Rear cassette nut "wrench"

Instead, you can buy such a key - a puller (prices are very different, depending on the manufacturer). You just always need to remember that if you buy a cheap key "for 1 ruble" from a Chinese on Ali or eBay, it may be enough for you exactly 1 repair. Or even not enough for repairs at all

How to remove a sprocket cassette without a puller?

Sometimes, instead of the first tool with a chain, people advise "throw a rag over the stars" and turn the nut with a puller. I'll be honest - I tried it. The rag was tattered with sharp bicycle teeth.

The second option for replacing the cassette retainer is to take the old chain, put it on one end of the cassette, and put the other end on the tire wheel rim. Fix there and turn the nut with a puller. As a result, the chain thrown over the tire pushed the tire to the rim and crumpled the last one.

DIY kit for assembling cassette remover

The third option came by itself, when I studied in detail the device of the retainer. We again need an old chain, a stick, 4 screws and a screwdriver. It is better not to use nails - they are ripped out of the stick with a bang.

Self-assembled homemade puller

Putting it all together, just like in a photo of a Shimano professional cassette remover.

Removing the bike cassette

Removing the bicycle rear wheel cassette

We take the second important tool, and an adjustable wrench. We put the puller on the wheel and install the toothy garbage in the nut. Well, your favorite adjustable wrench is in the same place

Then press down on both sides.

DIY Shimano Cassette Remover

It turns out this is the kind of thing - or rather nothing happens. I took a stick from some kind of pressed cardboard, which safely showed me its guts. The next stick was dried birch.

How to remove the rear sprocket

We put it on the wheel again.

We press from both sides down. We hear the nut micro-clicks (there is a ribbed surface, and when you tighten the nut, it is securely fixed).

How to replace Shimano cassette sprockets

We throw off the cassette from the hub, rinse and inspect each asterisk. If the output for one of the asterisks is quite high, then it is better to change this asterisk. Most often, "favorite show" stars are generated. Usually medium, as there is the lightest pedaling effort. In my case, the sprockets are in pretty good condition, and after troubleshooting, I decided to reassemble them in the same form, without replacement.

Replacing the rear wheel sprockets on a bicycle

How to put the cassette on the bike

The assembly is carried out upside-down. By and large, confuse the sides of the asterisk (which side to put out) tends to zero, since there are guides on the hub. And "backwards" to put asterisks is problematic. But, be careful - with a hammer, I think you can drive a star there

Then, lastly, install the nut. We twist it by hand until it stops. Here, you don't have to use the chain on a stick, since the rotation will be in the other direction and the hub will not scroll. But I still recommend that you use your homemade tool.

The tightening torque for this nut should be quite strong - 40 Nm per meter (4 kilograms applied to a 1 meter arm). And if you just tighten this nut with a wrench (without holding the chain), then there is every chance to unscrew the spokes from the wheel.

How do you remove the cassette from your bike?

Alex "On the Bike" Sidorov

Dish of the day: Ken Block released a new video - Dzhimkhana - 9. My heart stops when I look at his tricks.